No, It's really not... I'd take the lucky extended warranty money and throw it towards a newer suitable vehicle. I have an EW on my 20D till 2028 and I stand a pretty good chance of collecting ++ on it. My book value is about 14K and they've already paid out 1400.00 for new water pump and flush and fill. I'll hate to see her go but when and if it happens, it will prove that the warranty was an excellent investment. If it doesn't happen... Well then, I kept a pretty decent vehicle for a lot of years with no "what if" big bill worries on a semi exotic vehicle and saved the cost of upgrading to a newer model because I didn't trust this one...

 

Thanks @stbentoak .
The only thing is EW won't give me $13K cash, they will only pay that if I decided to go ahead with the engine replacement? If I decided not to, I guess my option would be to sell the car for parts.
I was thinking if I get a brand new engine into the car, may be I could get a few more years out of it BUT thats on an assumption that the car would not have any other major repairs. Yes, I am glad I got the EW in the place, its already paid off.

 

I believe mine will pay me cash, but I'll have to investigate that now! either way I'm in a comfort zone that whatever comes along I'll mostly be covered. If my vehicle is worth 14K and I have a 17K repair, I'll just have to decide if it's worth throwing 3 k at it to get the same old car back.... the problem is A. it's a Jaguar and B. There are a million other things that could go wrong with it, and you wouldn't have any further coverage. It could drop a transmission the next week.

 

@stbentoak I just love the car so don't wanna just scrap it. I got 145,000 KM out it in 4.5 years; I guess thats not too bad. If you read the articles I posted, you'll see that a lot of people had the issue a lot earlier in its life and they are so angry with Jaguar.
By the way, what year is your F-Pace? If its prior to 2020, please take it to reputable Jag mechanic and get the timing chain replaced. I really wished I had known about this earlier and I would have even paid 5K get it replaced, that way I could have saved the engine and I wouldn't be in this mess right now. If you haven't already; check out the links in my original post, its a scandal. Apparently, South Korean govt told Jaguar to recall all the vehicles with Ingeniums which had the flimsy chains and told them to be replaced with the newer ones they released post 2020. I wished UK and US governments did that too.

 

Well, mine is a seasonal vehicle, the 20D is, and I don't put that many miles on it per year. I have the extended warranty which would cover timing chains if they would break, so I'm not going to spend any preemptive money on it. When I bought this vehicle, I thought that this new ingenium was going to be a pretty bulletproof diesel, and I have owned many passenger diesels. Although mine hasn't had any significant issues yet, I have read enough to understand that there certainly are potential problems out there looming. Real question is going to be how long I'll keep it and if I can get through that period without any significant issues. If I can get eight years out of this car and sell it for any reasonable value while it's still in good performing shape, I'm going to take that as a win. If it has a major hiccup well then hopefully the warranty will make me somewhat whole and then it will probably go down the road. But this vehicle has done the job we asked it to do, and it gets absolutely superlative mileage. I get regularly 40 plus MPG on the highway. All in pretty reasonable comfort and stylish looks. Still looks showroom at 42K miles.

 

Yes, its awesome from fuel consumption view, we do about 800KM and we only need to fill the tank once a week. This is exactly why I went for diesel but unfortunately the Ingenium has some drawbacks (only now I know). I've had issues with DEF injector too. I've been using Air DEF liquid from HomeDepot (which matches the Jag spec - ISOXXXX) but since I had issues I started using it from the dealer which x5 more expensive.
Also my understanding is that when the timing chain breaks it can destroy the engine which is the exact situation I am in. Thats why I mentioned its worth spending 5K to replace the chain Vs replacing the engine at 25K.

 

Doe the Ingenium timing chain issue apply to the 2.0 gas engines as well? Have a 2018 Prestige 3.0 296 HP with only 30k miles.

 

Just the diesel.

 

JLR does not believe the chain issue applies to the gas engines, but it actually does. It is just much less likely to break because it doesn't go over the fuel injection pump. The materials the chains were made out of were inferior, and that was the reason they wear out. This information was stated by JLR in the Korean recall, the gas engines do also have the problem just not as likely to happen.

Story: I have a 2017 F-Pace 2.0d AWD R-Sport. JLR Thornhill are saying timing chain gone, it needs an engine replacement at 27K CAD. I have extended warranty (LGM) but they will only cover 13K as of the black book value of car. I've asked / complained to Jaguar North America but they are quite useless and not being helpful so, I need to pay 14K myself to get a new engine.

Facts:

1. 181KM on the clock
2. I just paid it off a few months ago. Bought it from Metro West in March 2020 at 40KM
3. No major issues other than the DPF / DEF injector was replaced under warranty about 2 years back.
4. Have extended warranty up to 200,000KM or May 2026.

A little bit iffy because it's a 2017, so the value has dropped quite a bit. If it was a newer model, I would say yes it's worth it. You could at least sell it and break even with a running car or just keep driving it.
If you had a Jaguar extended warranty they would have replaced the engine at no cost. But aftermarket warranties are all a little different and they usually have a lot of fine print that limits the amount they are willing to pay.
The one issue you need to check into if you decide to replace the engine with a JLR new engine or JLR remanufactured engine is they were still using the old timing chains when they were being manufactured so there's a bulletin by JLR that says you must replace the timing chain system when the new motor is received if it was manufactured prior to the changeover to the stronger chains (2020 or 2022) manufactured date.

 

To the OP, it seems pretty simple in your case (unfortunately). If you replace the engine, you'll get the updated chain and guides. Also, if there ever IS a recall/class action, you stand to collect. Regardless, you can sell the repaired car for more than the OOP. Otherwise, you just get scrap value.

 

Doe the Ingenium timing chain issue apply to the 2.0 gas engines as well? Have a 2018 Prestige 3.0 296 HP with only 30k miles.

To the OP, it seems pretty simple in your case (unfortunately). If you replace the engine, you'll get the updated chain and guides. Also, if there ever IS a recall/class action, you stand to collect. Regardless, you can sell the repaired car for more than the OOP. Otherwise, you just get scrap value.

yep, that’s what I am planning on doing. To honest, I still love driving it and I just paid it off a few months ago. I am also pretty lucky to get 181K out of it as if you read the Facebook link I sent you in my initial post, there are so many people had the issue much earlier and they are not getting any help from Jaguar. One lady is collecting info to take Jaguar to Houses of Parliament in the UK. I really hope Jaguar pays for this.

 

The US book value is about 13 K for your vehicle with that many miles. Sadly, when it was making noise but running, I would have traded it right there for any reasonable amount and called it a day.
Ours is great too, Its worth far more to us running as it is now, than what we can get for it. I think my warranty WILL cover the chains or a new motor (up to vehicle value...) and mine only has 43K miles on it so I don't think it will happen during my ownership. I plan on keeping it another 3 years max.... Change oil every year with only about 3k on the oil....

 

Ha ha (I'm not laughing AT you....) but I'd NEVER let a vehicle go that long on an oil change. My dealer schedule said change it every OTHER year on the jaguar free maintenance schedule and I changed it ever year myself the years they didn't. I had them send it home with a dealer oil change kit for the next years use.
When it went out of warranty, I did it myself every year and they would UPS me the oil and filter for 120.00 all in. That was good till 2 years ago they raised it significantly and now I buy conforming Motul oil and an OEM filter off of Amazon for about 100.00 all in. As long as the oil conforms, I'm not super picky anymore about who makes it as it only gets about 3K year put on it in a seasonal use situation right now. Just trying to stay in conformance to my extended warranty that has served me well so far..... Still like it and it runs well.

 

Ha ha (I'm not laughing AT you....) but I'd NEVER let a vehicle go that long on an oil change. My dealer schedule said change it every OTHER year on the jaguar free maintenance schedule and I changed it ever year myself the years they didn't. I had them send it home with a dealer oil change kit for the next years use.
When it went out of warranty, I did it myself every year and they would UPS me the oil and filter for 120.00 all in. That was good till 2 years ago they raised it significantly and now I buy conforming Motul oil and an OEM filter off of Amazon for about 100.00 all in. As long as the oil conforms, I'm not super picky anymore about who makes it as it only gets about 3K year put on it in a seasonal use situation right now. Just trying to stay in conformance to my extended warranty that has served me well so far..... Still like it and it runs well.

I thought Jaguar would know better and so I just followed what they said in the handbook.
After your post, I did some reading and some people said that the engine is much quieter with Motul compared to Castrol. So I might follow follow you and go for Motul in the future. Do you use any engine flush or any other cleaner (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B08QNJ6GT9/) to flush all the dirt / deposit out?
I have a 2009 Audi A4 for which I use the Liqui Moly 5W-40 and the Liqui Moly pro-line engine flush.

 

In Ingenium oil change kits come with 7 L of oil and a filter.
DPF cleaning solutions are poured directly into the fuel tank.
5K miles is overkill, 7,500 miles is good and if no contamination oil is probably still good up to 10K miles if you're doing oil sampling.

 

I have to change mine annually to maintain my extended warranty.. it only has about 2k miles on it, so I'm looking for the lowest cost performing/conforming oil. Motul is it.
I don't know that the Lucas helps the DPF.... But it can't hurt it, and I've had no DPF issues so far. If you rack up the miles, 7500 is well within parameters and gets you down the road a ways. That's as far as I'd go with it in this vehicle, although I doubt mine has ever went over 5 k for a change.

 

The oil thickness is not so much the issues I. The diesels, it is deliberately thinner as there are smaller tolerances between components. Using a thicker oil may actually damage components as the tolerances are too tight for it. Also The Jaguar oil will have the correct additives for the engine and probably a specific colour for identification, if something did go wrong, incorrect non specified oil = void extended warranty.

the issue with the Ingenium diesel is oil dilution, DPF fails to run properly and throws extra fuel at it which dilutes the oil and then causes excessive wear to various parts (turbo, timing chain and others) these fail and in that process destroy engine.

20,000-21,000 miles or every 2 years is simply not enough for the Ingenium it actually needs oil change every 4,000-5,000 miles as it is a lighter grade due to the tolerances and as a lighter grade it deteriorates faster.

 

The oil thickness is not so much the issues I. The diesels, it is deliberately thinner as there are smaller tolerances between components. Using a thicker oil may actually damage components as the tolerances are too tight for it.

That's not exactly true. the 0W rating is to get the oil to the components, like the timing chains as quickly as possible.
The thicker end of the scale (20 or 30) is only for fuel economy standards so they don't get penalized. In very cold climates, there's no reason to change it but in hot climates there's actually damage being done slowly.
These cars are designed to run at very low RPM. If you look at the studies on bearing wear at low RPM thin oil causes the most damage to the bearings. The studys show a heavier viscosity at the top of the rating, prevents the bearing damage.
That's actually documented science not just a guess.