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I am frustrated with the rattling noise on the passenger side door. The Technicians at the dealer say that it is because of the window tint film i have put after purchasing the car and that has damaged the door seal, and that's causing the rattling. I am not sure how a window film will cause the rattling noise, in fact on the contrary it might cause a snug fit.I might be completely wrong but i do not buy the reasoning that i have to pay to put in a new door seal costing me $900. I would like to take my vehicle to a new dealer but unfortunately both the dealerships in my are are owner by the same person/company.I know this is a new vehicle and creaks and rattles are normal at least for the first model year. Instead of trying to work the issue they are squarely blaming it on the window film which is completely unacceptable.

Do any of you guys have a similar rattle in the front passenger door ?
 

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Is it when the music is playing? Or all the time?

What model do you have since the S Models and I think R-Sport models have body cladding at the bottom of the doors and i've found that these rattle with the music if it has some base. I cushioned them with some insulating tape at the very bottom of both the driver and passenger front doors and my bass rattle with the music is complete gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its the S model, i hear the rattle on uneven roads, even when the audio system is turned off.

Now its got into my head all i hear is the rattle , I am not able to enjoy the ride....
 

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I to have the rattle in the lower part of the door both inside and out. Inside while I'm driving with or without music and outside when the music is cranked.....For your dealership to suggest that it's because of the tint is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. When I take mine in and have the summer tires put back on and it's first scheduled service, I'm going to have it addressed as well as the noise coming from under the steering wheel and the rear suspension AGAIN.....
 

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Yes saying it's the tint is ridiculous. Such a normal thing for a service department to do. Sometimes I think they think we are all stupid and accept their crazy theories.

So guys, try this look at the pic below of my door. Looking at this again, I think all models must have this cladding. See the piece that is slightly different blue (lighter) than the rest of the door at the very bottom where the weather strip stops, that is the cladding I'm talking about. If you grab that and lightly push out you'll see it moves slightly even if the metal color Allen key fastener you see in the picture is pretty tight. If it moves a lot my guess is you can probably put a couple turns on that fastener, but on mine even with that fully tightened, the bass in the music would still rattle this piece a lot. Mine didn't rattle with road imperfections that I could noticed, but it was very noticeable with any song that has some decent base. You'll see it rattle like crazy if you turn your stereo up with a bass heavy song. If you grab this cladding piece and hold it tight to the door, the vibration will go away.

What I did to quiet it was to put an insulator between the light blue plastic cladding and the metal door. If you loosen that fastener, you can then pull the cladding away from the door lightly (not hard or you may break the cladding) just enough to open a small gap between the cladding and the door. I used rubber insulating tape (you can actually see a little in the picture I pulled it out to show where I placed it for the pic). anything that will stay in there and insulate the door from the cladding will stop the vibration.

This is the main vibration that my doors were making with the music up. Doing this quieted them completely. I'm not sure if this is your issue, but it's worth checking.

the other thing I've heard is that someone found a bolt in one of their doors I believe. Maybe left there after assembly. If you move the door back and forth quickly and you hear metal rattling that could be it.

The other thing my doors did originally and I had the dealership fix is that there was a rattle coming from the mirrors. I had them tighten the mirror attachment bolts and that rattle went away.

Hopefully this will help.
 

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Thanks Gordon..I was just about to suggest my thread...
 

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Thanks Gordon..I was just about to suggest my thread...
Not sure who this "Gordon" is you reference, but you're welcome. :)
 
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I had some rattling in my door with music playing, my dealer opened door and foam insulation around speakers and said there was a bolt or something similar that was in contact with some cabling, they put some insulation around that bolt and it fixed the problem.

Also, just as an out of the box suggestion, several of us have had rattling in the plastic underside piece of the dashboard that sits at topside of instrument cluster area. Mostly on rougher road surfaces. Fixed by dealer with some sticky double sided tape.
 

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I had some rattling in my door with music playing, my dealer opened door and foam insulation around speakers and said there was a bolt or something similar that was in contact with some cabling, they put some insulation around that bolt and it fixed the problem.

Also, just as an out of the box suggestion, several of us have had rattling in the plastic underside piece of the dashboard that sits at topside of instrument cluster area. Mostly on rougher road surfaces. Fixed by dealer with some sticky double sided tape.
That Dash creak/buzz/rattle was annoying, I ended up fixing mine myself since the dealer "couldn't duplicate it" .,...
 

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Here is another possible solution or coincidence.

I have an S.

I had a rattle or more like a buzzing sound with or without music and I could also hear a rattle at higher bass levels with music.

I has an appointment with my dealer this past Monday to try to repair the problem.

On the Thursday before I decided to have oil spray applied by RustCheck, not sure if you have that in the USA. Competing chain is Krown.

The cost to apply either one is minimal about $150 Canadian.

I spoke to a senior person in head office of RustCheck as to why it was worth it even though a lot of body panels are aluminium. He recommended their best franchise in the GTA. It was a bit of drive for me but he told me it was worth going to this location. He was right, light application, no dripping and no drilling, special tools were used to get into the doors where there was no drain hole or factory plug. In an out in about 30 minutes, I did call ahead to say I was coming and was advised that it could be done when I arrived.

The owner of the franchise asked me how much mileage I do annually which is only about 12,000 kilometers and he said "see you in three years" even though it is suppose to be an annual application. I liked that very honest.

Within a day after the application, the buzzing and rattle stopped. My theory is that when the oil spray solidified a little which is suppose too happen, it stuck to the component causing the buzzing and rattle and stopped the noise. Or perhaps just a coincidence.
 

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Just to take a page from the book of "If you hear hoof beats, first look for horses, not zebras", is there ANY chance that the passenger side seat belt buckle is rattling against the base of the B pillar? I get regular rattling from that when I am driving alone.
Just sayin'...
 

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Here is another possible solution or coincidence.

I have an S.

I had a rattle or more like a buzzing sound with or without music and I could also hear a rattle at higher bass levels with music.

I has an appointment with my dealer this past Monday to try to repair the problem.

On the Thursday before I decided to have oil spray applied by RustCheck, not sure if you have that in the USA. Competing chain is Krown.

The cost to apply either one is minimal about $150 Canadian.

I spoke to a senior person in head office of RustCheck as to why it was worth it even though a lot of body panels are aluminium. He recommended their best franchise in the GTA. It was a bit of drive for me but he told me it was worth going to this location. He was right, light application, no dripping and no drilling, special tools were used to get into the doors where there was no drain hole or factory plug. In an out in about 30 minutes, I did call ahead to say I was coming and was advised that it could be done when I arrived.

The owner of the franchise asked me how much mileage I do annually which is only about 12,000 kilometers and he said "see you in three years" even though it is suppose to be an annual application. I liked that very honest.

Within a day after the application, the buzzing and rattle stopped. My theory is that when the oil spray solidified a little which is suppose too happen, it stuck to the component causing the buzzing and rattle and stopped the noise. Or perhaps just a coincidence.
When buying my F-Pace, I inquired about rust protection. They told me that the car had lifetime warrantee agains rust. They said because of the mostly-aluminum construction, that it was unnecessary. Did they mention the reason to apply the rust protection?

F.
 

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When buying my F-Pace, I inquired about rust protection. They told me that the car had lifetime warrantee agains rust. They said because of the mostly-aluminum construction, that it was unnecessary. Did they mention the reason to apply the rust protection?




The following is taken right from the Canadian Jaguar Site:

F.
Corrosion Protection Warranty

Should any part of the bodywork of the vehicle be perforated by rust corrosion, the panel(s) affected by the perforation will be repaired or replaced by an Authorized Jaguar Retailer completely free of charge, regardless of any change in vehicle ownership for 6 year unlimited mileage.
If your Jaguar is in an accident and needs repairs to the bodywork, they should be carried out by an Authorized Jaguar Retailer Repair Centre in order for the repaired sections to still be covered by the Corrosion Protection Warranty.


Respectfully what the dealer tells you should be taken with a grain of good old Canadian Moose Sh-t. You need to read the web site, the manuals and ask members of this forum for the real accurate information on everything. Relying on the dealer for information only is like Grandma relying on Sylvester the Cat to protect Tweetie the Bird!!!..
 

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Yes saying it's the tint is ridiculous. Such a normal thing for a service department to do. Sometimes I think they think we are all stupid and accept their crazy theories.

So guys, try this look at the pic below of my door. Looking at this again, I think all models must have this cladding. See the piece that is slightly different blue (lighter) than the rest of the door at the very bottom where the weather strip stops, that is the cladding I'm talking about. If you grab that and lightly push out you'll see it moves slightly even if the metal color Allen key fastener you see in the picture is pretty tight. If it moves a lot my guess is you can probably put a couple turns on that fastener, but on mine even with that fully tightened, the bass in the music would still rattle this piece a lot. Mine didn't rattle with road imperfections that I could noticed, but it was very noticeable with any song that has some decent base. You'll see it rattle like crazy if you turn your stereo up with a bass heavy song. If you grab this cladding piece and hold it tight to the door, the vibration will go away.

What I did to quiet it was to put an insulator between the light blue plastic cladding and the metal door. If you loosen that fastener, you can then pull the cladding away from the door lightly (not hard or you may break the cladding) just enough to open a small gap between the cladding and the door. I used rubber insulating tape (you can actually see a little in the picture I pulled it out to show where I placed it for the pic). anything that will stay in there and insulate the door from the cladding will stop the vibration.

This is the main vibration that my doors were making with the music up. Doing this quieted them completely. I'm not sure if this is your issue, but it's worth checking.

the other thing I've heard is that someone found a bolt in one of their doors I believe. Maybe left there after assembly. If you move the door back and forth quickly and you hear metal rattling that could be it.

The other thing my doors did originally and I had the dealership fix is that there was a rattle coming from the mirrors. I had them tighten the mirror attachment bolts and that rattle went away.

Hopefully this will help.
I just wanted to say thanks for this post. I recently have developed a rattle on the passenger side that I haven't been able to diagnose. Prompted by your post and photo, I just opened the passenger door and found the same spot in my car -- and indeed a little grab and shake of the cladding creates a rattling sound that seems very likely to be the cause of my concern. I've got a service appointment scheduled for next week, so will tee it up with them to hopefully get a professional fix. (Probably the same insulation tape that you did yourself, ha ha....)
 

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That Dash creak/buzz/rattle was annoying, I ended up fixing mine myself since the dealer "couldn't duplicate it" .,...
What did you do to fix it?
 

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The other thing my doors did originally and I had the dealership fix is that there was a rattle coming from the mirrors. I had them tighten the mirror attachment bolts and that rattle went away.
I have a rattle in my rear passenger door when I'm going through a bumpy road and I can't quite find it. I've been able to eliminate some areas but I also think it may be the mirrors because I've lowered the mirror to see if it's the root of the issue and as I do it, the loud gets a bit louder. I'm going to see if they can look into this. Also found a rattle in the left drivers beam...

Totally forgot about these rattle problems...
 

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What did you do to fix it?
Anenoso,

I had already traced the sound to the steering column surround at the firewall. There is a big rubber boot around the steering column that intersects with the Firewall. If you remove that boot, by removing the ring holding it which is attached with what I remember were two bolts. Pull the rubber and carpet back you'll see a universal type joint that connects the column to the extension that goes to what I would expect is the steering rack. You will also see a few layers of aluminum in the floor around that opening. Since I couldn't specifically identify what was creating the noise, I ended up spraying silicone all over the universal joint, and all of the metal around the opening. I wasn't stingy with the spray. I then reassembled the boot, ring that holds the boot in place and the bolts and then went for a test drive. Initially after the fix, on that test drive I could still hear the buzzing, so I thought I failed. However, the next day the buzz was gone and it hasn't come back. I assumed that the spraying I did eventually made its way into where the buzzing/creaking was coming from and quieted the problem.
 
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