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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm really trying to arm myself... I have the invoice MSRP, did any of you have any additional cost for purchases made in NC like

Document fee (may vary)
Title and registration (should be similar)
Any other dealer fees...

I'm not looking for how much you paid for you car just the other fees they may try to tack on

Many thanks
 

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If you lease there should be an acquisition fee. The doc fees seem to vary from state to state. I have seen FL with $775, MA with $390, and NJ with $475. Title and registration should not be much higher than if you did it yourself, but check it. You may encounter the "see if you notice" fees. Don't pay those!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you lease there should be an acquisition fee. The doc fees seem to vary from state to state. I have seen FL with $775, MA with $390, and NJ with $475. Title and registration should not be much higher than if you did it yourself, but check it. You may encounter the "see if you notice" fees. Don't pay those!
MGluck, mind to expand on the "see if you notice" fees
 

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I saved a couple of hundred bucks on my F-Type by doing the registration myself, instead of letting the dealer do it. I tried to do the same thing on the F-Pace, but couldn't because there was a lien. Since the early-order financing incentive was $800, at least it more than "paid" for the charge. The worst part was that it ended up taking 2 months to get the registration complete, so I had to get a second temporary tag, and worried my personalized plate would get taken in the meantime.
 

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@migmasta you make it sound like you have never bought a new vehicle before. Is that the case? What you need to do before you sign any paperwork prior to taking possession of your vehicle is to read and question any line in the sales agreement that you don't understand or that you don't think should be there. Dealers like to slip things in like dealer prep which you should not pay. Make sure there is nothing in the contract that you have not agreed to previously.

Administration fee is another one that the dealer uses to convince you that it covers his clerical staff overhead. If you see it I'm sure you can negotiate that number.
 

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I would go one step further, accept no charges that aren't required such as license and registration, we'll get back to those in a moment. Accept no advertising, administration, prep, ADM, cleaning, etc, charges. Those and anything like them by any name are all excess profits you are in no way required to pay and shouldn't because there are dealers that don't charge them. Even those that do will usually relent if you start walking.

Legit charges can often be taken care of yourself for less but at some places they don't charge extra or charge very little. You will need to determine what those costs are in your locality, determine the value of your time, act accordingly.

Do not bring these charges up when you negotiate the price of the car. If you do so up front they will try and work you endlessly for a higher base price to make up for their "loss". This gives them another tool to work their game and you don't want that, play their game and you lose every time. Instead negotiate the price of the car and when they try to tack them on, refuse them. Now you have them a step away from a deal and they have to play your game. They usually cave rather than watch you walk away. Not always though, you may end up shopping elsewhere.

Be aware it isn't exactly rare for a dealership to try sneaking something in on the paperwork. Go over the numbers carefully and leave nothing unquestioned that isn't clear as already said above.

One last thing, OEMs charge for shipping and that charge is legit, the amount can be quickly determined online. Anything the dealer adds to this is not legit unless you're having your car delivered by trailer or other such arrangements.
 

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I always negotiate an "out the door" price- this is the final price inclusive of fees, taxes, etc. It makes life easier, especially if you're paying cash or already have your own financing.

In my experience, my out the door target is the pre-tax/fee MSRP price or slightly below that. That will vary differently, depending on the car and availability. If you're getting a mainstream model, your out the door could be several thousand under sticker. Most of my purchases were higher end and in moderate to great demand so the discounts available weren't huge and out the door for MSRP was a good price.

If the dealer insists on charging all those stupid fees, let them figure out the math on the back end. I know what total price I'm comfortable paying for the car, and that's the ONLY number I'm going to negotiate.
 

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I always negotiate an "out the door" price- this is the final price inclusive of fees, taxes, etc. It makes life easier, especially if you're paying cash or already have your own financing.

In my experience, my out the door target is the pre-tax/fee MSRP price or slightly below that. That will vary differently, depending on the car and availability. If you're getting a mainstream model, your out the door could be several thousand under sticker. Most of my purchases were higher end and in moderate to great demand so the discounts available weren't huge and out the door for MSRP was a good price.

If the dealer insists on charging all those stupid fees, let them figure out the math on the back end. I know what total price I'm comfortable paying for the car, and that's the ONLY number I'm going to negotiate.
I follow this same philosophy when buying a car now. You could sit at the sales desk for hours haggling over each line item on their closing sheet, and letting them confuse you by trying to explain each of their redundant fees. I go in with my bottom line expectation and fight toward that. I don't care how the dealer ends up writing that up, as long as my "out the door" price is at the bottom.
 
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If you lease there should be an acquisition fee. The doc fees seem to vary from state to state. I have seen FL with $775, MA with $390, and NJ with $475.
Youch! $80 in California...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@MKenM I have bought 2 new cars and a couple of bikes, but I have never ordered a new car. Plus whats the harm in learning about pitfalls that lie ahead. It's been over 10 yrs since i purchased my last car/bike so PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE forgive me if i'm asking for other folks advise, trust me if i've had a bad experience i'd happily share it with the group...
 

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@MKenM I have bought 2 new cars and a couple of bikes, but I have never ordered a new car. Plus whats the harm in learning about pitfalls that lie ahead. It's been over 10 yrs since i purchased my last car/bike so PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE forgive me if i'm asking for other folks advise, trust me if i've had a bad experience i'd happily share it with the group...
Good bad or indifferent I was just curious no harm intended and I tried to give you some advise. And BTW you are forgiven>:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good bad or indifferent I was just curious no harm intended and I tried to give you some advise. And BTW you are forgiven>:)
none taken, i'm one of those dudes that don't ask for directions or ask for help so yes for once i'm asking for some help/guidance, takes a lot of (fill in the blank) to acknowledge one's shortcomings
 

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It is very simple. To start did you sign a contract or just intent to buy with a deposit and a receipt for your deposit? Did they supply you with a print out of all the options on the vehicle which would include the MSRP or a discounted price if you negotiated that and delivery charge which is a standard fee around $975.00. If you signed a contract the negotiated price is the first line you need to concern yourself with. It should agree with your understanding of the starting point. Then comes delivery charges less trades (if any) after which sales tax would be applied (again if any). After that there are lines that are printed on the standard contract which may or may not be filled in. If you disagree with any of those charges you need to discuss those charges and come to an agreement on acceptance or refusal of those charges. What those charges are will vary from dealer to dealer depending what they are trying to convince you of that they consider normal.

As mentioned in this thread the best thing to do is acquaint yourself with all the necessary charges and go to the dealer with an "out the door" price in your head. Sometimes the heart overpowers the head but that is your choice. Keep in mind that they want to deliver that vehicle. The F Paces are no longer flying out the door and the '18's are on the way in. Best of luck remember as long as you think it is a good deal that is all that counts.
 
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