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Discussion Starter #21
Wow! Quite a list. I've been wondering if there is any upgraded supercharger available that would be possible to swap in. I'm not sure how much the motor is capable of handling. But I have read that the pulley upgrades don't do much, as you've mentioned. Since I already have a fully built turbo car, I have no intention of modding the Jaguar just to gain a small percentage of power. Plus, I can drive the other car when I really want to go fast.

The Jag I just want to sound/look good and cruise in luxury.
 

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Wow! Quite a list. I've been wondering if there is any upgraded supercharger available that would be possible to swap in. I'm not sure how much the motor is capable of handling. But I have read that the pulley upgrades don't do much, as you've mentioned. Since I already have a fully built turbo car, I have no intention of modding the Jaguar just to gain a small percentage of power. Plus, I can drive the other car when I really want to go fast.

The Jag I just want to sound/look good and cruise in luxury.
I have a TVS2300 from a Shelby GT500 I want to try swapping in but the way the supercharger is located with coolers on both sides needs rethinking will update you!

The crank pulley makes a huge difference so that is definitely in the books for after summer, currently 45C in the morning!!!
 

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Wow! Quite a list. I've been wondering if there is any upgraded supercharger available that would be possible to swap in. I'm not sure how much the motor is capable of handling. But I have read that the pulley upgrades don't do much, as you've mentioned. Since I already have a fully built turbo car, I have no intention of modding the Jaguar just to gain a small percentage of power. Plus, I can drive the other car when I really want to go fast.

The Jag I just want to sound/look good and cruise in luxury.
For the V6, 500hp on stock internals and without an engine pull is the limit. The SC on the V6 is a R1320 you could put a R1600 and get more boost, but hen comes the need to beef up the internals a bit more.

The truth about pulley size swap

Both V6 and V8 share the same size crank pulley (159mm).

The stock V6 upper pulley is 62mm, (the V8 is 64mm) that makes the belt ratio 1:2.5645. At 6800RPM the stock setup spins the supercharger at 17,438RPM (the maximum rated limit is 20,000 RPM for the V6 R1320 SC).

By using a larger crank pulley (usually 177mm), the ratio becomes 1:2.8548. With only this change the supercharger spins up to 19,412RPM - close to the rated limit.

You cannot swap both pulleys, if you do, you will certainly destroy the supercharger much faster. The top rated speed is to protect the gears and bearings within the supercharger.

With the increase of speed in the supercharger, the efficiency declines and it generates hotter air.

DP
 

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I have a custom air box being manufactured, for now it’s not an issue since the filters are very high up


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Why you should NOT mess with the air intake system

Both the V6 and V8 models share the same exact intake air boxes and tubing. They are generously sized from the factory. Superchargers, unlike turbos, are designed to be volumetric pumps. This means that for each revolution a specific amount of air is moved from the intake to your manifold by way of s belt and a specific multiplier from the crankshaft. The rotation speed is always a factor of the engine speed. Turbos are exhaust gas-driven and subject to a multitude of variables. In a supercharged engine, unlike a turbo, the intake side of a supercharger is subject to an equal forced vacuum and unless you have a severely restricted intake, your boost pressure is always predictable. Turbos are extremely sensitive to intake losses. That alone tells you that messing with the intake is pointless on a supercharged engine. Moving to airbox and MAF sensor (the sensor that provides an accurate reading or the airflow and relies on a linear and non-turbulent flow of air), in the stock system, this is mounted downflow from a very generous air "accumulation" section right after the air filter. This is important to ensure that the airflow is as linear as possible. Lastly, the stock intake has snorkels that source cold air from the rear of the grille and in front of any heat source. When you install these amazing intake systems promising unreal power gains, what you are doing is moving the air source to an area that is right in front of the fender well, in a very hot area of the engine bay. You use these cone-shaped filters that are clamped to the MAF sensors and have NO air storage and offer a phenomenal turbulent flaw that will provide inaccurate readings to the MAF sensor. Congratulations! you just made your performance worse. If the goal is to have more "supercharger whine", you can eliminate the intake silencer section of the tubing and replace it with a 2.5-2.75" section of aluminum tubing without worsening your car's performance.

DP
 

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For the V6, 500hp on stock internals and without an engine pull is the limit. The SC on the V6 is a R1320 you could put a R1600 and get more boost, but hen comes the need to beef up the internals a bit more.

The truth about pulley size swap

Both V6 and V8 share the same size crank pulley (159mm).

The stock V6 upper pulley is 62mm, (the V8 is 64mm) that makes the belt ratio 1:2.5645. At 6800RPM the stock setup spins the supercharger at 17,438RPM (the maximum rated limit is 20,000 RPM for the V6 R1320 SC).

By using a larger crank pulley (usually 177mm), the ratio becomes 1:2.8548. With only this change the supercharger spins up to 19,412RPM - close to the rated limit.

You cannot swap both pulleys, if you do, you will certainly destroy the supercharger much faster. The top rated speed is to protect the gears and bearings within the supercharger.

With the increase of speed in the supercharger, the efficiency declines and it generates hotter air.

DP
100% agreed I have the table for what each pulley being crank or upper pulley makes a difference in rotation.
I’m definitely going for a crank pulley but was hoping to try on the upper pulley too.

As for the v6 using the R1320 you make an interesting point, I don’t know where I read that it uses the r1900, same one on the V8. Also the v8 comes with a stock 66mm if I’m not wrong while the v6 comes with a 62mm and the smallest being offered is a 60.5mm


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Why you should NOT mess with the air intake system

Both the V6 and V8 models share the same exact intake air boxes and tubing. They are generously sized from the factory. Superchargers, unlike turbos, are designed to be volumetric pumps. This means that for each revolution a specific amount of air is moved from the intake to your manifold by way of s belt and a specific multiplier from the crankshaft. The rotation speed is always a factor of the engine speed. Turbos are exhaust gas-driven and subject to a multitude of variables. In a supercharged engine, unlike a turbo, the intake side of a supercharger is subject to an equal forced vacuum and unless you have a severely restricted intake, your boost pressure is always predictable. Turbos are extremely sensitive to intake losses. That alone tells you that messing with the intake is pointless on a supercharged engine. Moving to airbox and MAF sensor (the sensor that provides an accurate reading or the airflow and relies on a linear and non-turbulent flow of air), in the stock system, this is mounted downflow from a very generous air "accumulation" section right after the air filter. This is important to ensure that the airflow is as linear as possible. Lastly, the stock intake has snorkels that source cold air from the rear of the grille and in front of any heat source. When you install these amazing intake systems promising unreal power gains, what you are doing is moving the air source to an area that is right in front of the fender well, in a very hot area of the engine bay. You use these cone-shaped filters that are clamped to the MAF sensors and have NO air storage and offer a phenomenal turbulent flaw that will provide inaccurate readings to the MAF sensor. Congratulations! you just made your performance worse. If the goal is to have more "supercharger whine", you can eliminate the intake silencer section of the tubing and replace it with a 2.5-2.75" section of aluminum tubing without worsening your car's performance.

DP
No one claimed unreal power gains, I will update you with exact scanning details and dyno graphs as to what gains/losses are made.


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Discussion Starter #27
DP, great info! I'm on the same page with you regarding mods. Like I said before, I have no plans to do any performance upgrades; just not worth it or necessary with this vehicle to me. I'm only here for exhaust mods.

I'm still curious to see the results of Abdullah's mods, for better or worse.
 

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100% agreed I have the table for what each pulley being crank or upper pulley makes a difference in rotation.
I’m definitely going for a crank pulley but was hoping to try on the upper pulley too.

As for the v6 using the R1320 you make an interesting point, I don’t know where I read that it uses the r1900, same one on the V8. Also the v8 comes with a stock 66mm if I’m not wrong while the v6 comes with a 62mm and the smallest being offered is a 60.5mm


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On the V8 things are different

the stock upper pulley is 64mm. Ratio is 1:2.4843 Stock, the supercharger spins at 16,893RPM when the engine is at 6800RPM. The R1900 supercharger on the V8 is ONLY rated for a max of 18,000RPM!

With the larger crank pulley your new ratio is 1:2.7656, this will get the supercharger to 18,806RPM, well over the maximum rated limit
 

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Good info DP, thanks for sharing. Clearly, I won’t be doing a pulley upgrade on my SVR!
 

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I wouldn't personally do dumps on this car. I run QTP's on my W212 E63 with the M157 bi-turbo immediately in front of the stock cans and because of the turbo's... it's bearable. When I had my W211 E55 with long tubes I put the dumps immediately after the headers. I was like 35 and I thought that was awesome. I have videos of me at a drag strip and that car was actually louder than straight piped ZL571 Camaros.

I put a quicksilver system on this F-pace and while I wish it was a little louder... I think a res delete or mid muffler delete would be good... but dumps I think would sound awful if you did any of the above.

I'm not messing with the pulleys until Jag stops giving me free service.... ;)
72420
72421
 

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100% you'll get very similar numbers since the difference between the 380hp and 340hp is just a tune.

I have a '17 XF 340hp I did rear muffler deletes and it sounds really good not too loud. I ran straight pipes it was unbearable so look behind the center res and before the rear dual mufflers.

Also I just got a HP tuner to start tuning and this car pops like hell now with just 2 mins of pop tuning.

ONE THING I DID TODAY, that I highly recommend anyone to do, cone filters, the supercharger whine is godly now.
What filter did you put in and how hard was the install?
 

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What filter did you put in and how hard was the install?
I got two simota filters since the k&n was out of stock. It took 2 or 3 bolts on each side and a screw driver to tighten the filter on. Look for a 2inch filter gromet size if not less cause I got a 3.5 and had to use a adapter.


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