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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning on making the exhaust a bit louder on the 2021 SVR and wanted to try and get it to sound as close to the 2020 as possible. A resonator delete seems to be the easiest/most popular route to go but I was wondering if anyone can tell me if there’s a better way to get it to sound exactly like the 2020. I attached a pic of the current exhaust setup with resonator for comparison.
73727
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Europe focused: Excellent video, F Type mentioned at 3:19, worth watching the whole video though....

Did a little more digging and found out through this video that Porsche started doing this last year with their US model Cayman GT4's. Good news and bad news. Good news is that there's a possibility that Jaguar installed the gpf but left out the sensors/monitoring equipment in the US models because gpf's aren't regulated here. That would mean we could simply get the ppf cut out and replaced with pipe and go on our way with a much louder exhaust. Bad news is, if they left the sensors in, we would not only have to cut out the ppf but also remap and tune the ecu so there are no errors and the car doesn't enter limp mode. This means we would spend probably upwards of $1k just to get our exhaust sounding how it SHOULD have sounded in the first place. Another thing they discuss in this video is the fact that Porsche has software embedded into the ECU that keeps the valves shut most of the time and only opens them up in certain rev ranges no matter what mode you are in. I'm thinking this could be the case with our 2021's as well because I notice that the only time it really barks is right when you get on it from either a stop or a really low gear. Otherwise its just kind of this low burble. Again, I could be wrong about all of this but I'm going to try and pick the brain of someone from Jaguars service department and I'm hoping they can give me at least a modicum of information.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As expected. I suspect a slight de-tune to control the pops and gurgles especially at lower RPMs and a software change to limit the opening of the exhaust valves. I need to locate the exhaust valves and mount a GoPro to monitor their operation during different driving conditions.
I was going to try and locate the vacuum line for the exhaust and disconnect it. However, theres a chance the valves would stay closed rather than open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
got the valves open permanently and it certainly sounds more aggressive in the lower rev ranges. More pops and bangs as well. No error codes or anything of that nature. Only thing is they're not fully open, they're open about halfway. I'm going to do some more testing to see if I can get them open fully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What you’re going to want to do is get up under the rear exhaust. Adjacent to where the valve is located on the outside of the pipe you’re gonna find an electronic connection. You’re gonna find a little red tab, get a tiny screwdriver or if your fingers are small enough push that tab in. Once it’s pushed in youre going to pull it to ensure it’s fully extended. Then right underneath that you will feel a plastic tab that you depress which will allow you to pull and disconnect the valve connector. Now that you know how to do it, plug it back in but leave everything ready to be disconnected again. Do the same to the other side. Then you’re gonna wanna turn on your vehicle and make sure it’s in dynamic and drive around for 5 mins or so to let it warm up and allow the valves to open. Take it back home and do not turn it off, make sure that auto stop start is off. Get out and put some gloves on so you don’t burn yourself on the exhaust, look down the pipes to ensure both valves are open and then quickly disconnect each connector. Wrap them in electrical tape and fasten them in place and boom your valves will stay open until you plug the connectors back in. I wasn’t able to get mine to open completely only about halfway. However, I haven’t really tried again so maybe try driving it for a bit longer or give it some aggressive pulls and see if that opens the valves completely before you unplug the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for this. Very helpful!

Without power, you should be able to positiong the valves manually to fully open?

If the ECU doesn't check valve position, then I should be able to run power to the valve through a SPST switch. This will allow the valve to power full open, though I wonder if the valve provides feedback that it is fully open / closed (limit switch)? If it does, I would have to install relay to kill power once fully open / closed to keep from burning up the electric motor.
I thought the same thing, I fiddled with them for about 10 minutes last night trying to get them fully open and I’m pretty sure they’re spring loaded. At least that’s what it felt like because I used a long metal stick to apply pressure and was able to get them fully open but as soon as pressure was released it would go back to pretty much the same spot.
That would be super convenient! If you’re able to do that I’m gonna need a bit of a tutorial because I know what the switch and relay are but I have no idea how you’d get it to open the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
If they are spring loaded, they must need power to remain fully open, so I assume keeping them powered all the time (only when the vehicle is running) won't hurt them.

Off the cuff, running a ignition switched 12VDC source through a SPST switch to the valve should suffice. I would probably get sued if I posted a schematic on how to do this, but your welcome to PM me. In the interim, I am going to look for schematics for the valve and/or purchase a used valve.
PM sent
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Let's stir this up some more in a different more noise direction, I don't know how this is true, there is not that much sound deadening under the hood: How And Why Jaguar Turned Down Its Supercharger Whine

Long time ago (21 years!) I owned another supercharged 5 liter tuck and the supercharger whine was excellent. Didn't notice it either on long trips. Funny thing is a spent $36K for it total, just about how much put as a down payment for this one.. :cool:
Hmmm so there’s really nothing we can do to increase the whine :(( that sucks. I wonder if velocity ap’s larger pulley would produce more wine considering it sucks more air in. There could be sound deadening in between the engine and the cabin that we can’t really see. BMC has some air filters that I will swap out with the stock ones that should produce a bit more engine noise but probably not whine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Very happy to find this thread! Just swapped my 2020 for a Petrolix Blue 2021 SVR and I have the same soul-killing feelings haha.

Can I assume you’re talking about this electrical connector circled in red?

View attachment 73853 View attachment 73852

If you ever do find a way to keep the flap/valve open 100% for best exhaust flow….the world would be a better place :). I thought maybe there was a vacuum connection as well holding the valve closed since the exhaust is loud at cold start for a few seconds until what I thought was vacuum building in the system to close them. Guess it’s just that module though? Wonder if we could remove the muffler assembly and control module to disassemble and remove the valve plate…

Oh, and if you’re looking for a used valve to tinker with…
Yes that is the connector I removed.

This is my first SVR and I've only heard the sound of the 2020 exhaust in videos but it sounds night and day. I can't imagine getting used to the loud one only to have it stripped away in the newer model. Another member "miT" had suggested running an 12v ignition switch through an spst switch to the valves to be able to open them manually but wiring is not my expertise. I think the easiest route like you suggested would be to remove the module and then the plate which I don't see why we wouldn't be able to do as there should be some way to remove the vavles without chopping off the exhaust.
I might just leave mine in for now because I'm planning on getting a tune from VelocityAP where they should be able to program the valves to open 100%. Definitely keep us posted on whether you're able to get them completely open or fully remove them.

Also, ensure that you do not have a gpf (gas particulate filter) on your cats that could be limiting the sound even more. Chris from velocity AP informed me that he worked on a 2021 from the states (which aren't supposed to be equipped w/ gpf's) that did have a gpf. I started another thread in the SVR section addressing this a few weeks ago. Mine doesn't and yours shouldn't but I would definitely check that out bc if that's the case you're going to need downpipes to make it louder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Awesome, thanks for confirming. I’m definitely missing the growl at throttle positions lower than WOT. Sounds like this will bring that back along with pops and cracks at lower speeds.

Guess I’ll find out if having them open only 50% hampers full throttle sound or performance.

The upshift cracks are interestingly still identically loud as my 2020. The tone of the rumble is different though making me think my Canadian car has GPFs since the shape of the piping is still the same. It’s not worse…just different.

But yea, right now it’s the same as the new F-Type which is also very muffled even in loud mode below a certain rpm range.

I’d lean towards a tune as well that can reprogram the valve logic and maybe even copy over the 2020 logic for off-throttle ignition timing to get more pops and cracks back.

Just need to find a junkyard SVR to get a pre-facelift center exhaust section…if that’s where the GPFs are hiding
I did notice some pops and crackles at lower speeds but nothing major since its only open about halfway compared to fully on the 2020. I actually ended up plugging my connectors back in because I felt that it was quieter on throttle but it wasn't a huge distinction. I could very well be wrong because the exhaust isn't that loud to begin with so it's hard to hear a difference. I've been told by Chris that if you have a gpf it would be visibly obvious especially if you compare to your 2020. In fact I sent him a pic of my cats to which he replied no gpf. That being said, I'd be surprised if you do and my gut feeling is that it's all in the tune. I say this because SVO is saying they tuned down the exhaust to meet US regulations (which is essentially California and a couple other states) that you can actually get pulled over if your exhaust is too loud and they will measure the decibel level. The cool part about the tune with velocityAP is it's customizable so you can ask for a little crackles and pops or a ton based on your preference. That's a great idea that I would like to present to Chris at VAP to possibly mimic the 2020 exhaust. He would just need the stock file for the 2020 which I'm guessing he already has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
That’s cool, hope I don’t have it!

We must have been speaking to different people on the JaguarSV Instagram account haha. My contact assured me that the 2021 SVR “is even louder than the 2020 model!!”….sigh.

Hope VAP has an affiliated shop up here I can work with. And hopefully it’s not too much work to flash back to stock for service visits…although that’s not really foolproof anyways to not get flagged. I’m more than used to my new cars being flagged for tunes haha.

Once all the parts websites have been updated for the 2021 MY we can compare part numbers for all the exhaust components to 2020. I tried checking but they’re mostly incomplete still for 2021.
What’s your experience with your ecu being flagged for a tune? What do they say and what action have they taken?
& you’re in luck, VAP is actually based out of Canada if I’m not mistaken. If you don’t feeel like driving to them they have tunes they can send to you and they will customize the tune to your liking after you send them your stock file. All you will have to do is plug it into your odb2 port and upload it I believe.

The address they list on their IG

206 Maple Avenue Oliver, British Columbia
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yeah there's some people on these forums who will scream bloody murder any time you mention making aftermarket modifications to a car under warranty saying that you won't be able to get pivi pro fixed if you do something like that. However, I've done my research and I'm 99.9% sure that modifications made to the powertrain will have no effect on the warranty for things like speakers or PiviPro. I think there is a big misconception out there that once you modify your engine you lose your entire warranty. Also, people like to assume that as soon as they find out you have a tune your powertrain warranty is voided. When in fact, if the whole lot of fpaces is experiencing problems with fuel injectors and your tuned fpace has a problem with fuel injectors then you can argue that it is not tune related and thus have it covered under warranty. It is when you start to experience problems that other nontuned SVR's are not experiencing that you are out of luck. Even then if you have a cool dealer you could still be covered.

Ahh I don't have these problems in Arizona, just excessive heat issues which can be easily solved with meth injection. I'm planning on doing a stage 3 Velocity AP tune with upper and lower pulley and I'm feeling very confident in the modification as VAP has done extensive testing and shared that JLR ran the engine between 750 and 800bhp during testing. Stage 3 will put me at 660hp and 630tq.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Also, I drove the car pretty hard in Dynamic mode all the way home from work and when I parked it up the valves seemed to immediately default to just a fraction open. Could barely feel any exhaust flow on my hand from the inboard pipes - seemed to be mostly coming from the muffled outboard side. I think I need to jamb a metal rod in or something to lever the valve plate open to 50% or so before pulling the connector.
Ahhh I did not even think of that! That's a good idea I might try that tonight with like a PVC or whatever opens it the most. I guess PVC could melt though so that might not be the best idea. Keep me posted on your experimentation!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
I did the velocity AP tune and pulley on a couple of different XKRs, most recently last year It's interesting that Stewart is now recommending both upper and lower pulleys on this engine, because last year he recommended only the crank pulley. Said the supercharger pulley was not really worth the effort or expense. In any event, the crank pulley was definitely worth it.

I'm letting this F-Pace SVR engine break in more before I touch it. But knowing myself it's probably only a matter of time....
I'm not necessarily doing it out of recommendation but I've done a lot of research on the f type forums and people seem to come to a consensus that the single pulley is perfect for the f type with a select few running the dual pulley system. So I just figured with our additional weight that the extra 33 ft/lbs of torque and 15hp for $200 more certainly would not hurt. That torque is 40% extra torque than you would be receiving with just the single pulley. Adding meth injection would give it a slight boost as well while keeping everything cool. All said and done that's $2500 for everything I just listed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yea you see that on all the forums. Even with a problem that could have been caused by the tune, at least you have a (small) chance it could be covered under a powertrain warranty. And with social media driving business, a major problem after a tune will likely result in the tuner doing everything they can to rectify it to ensure the story doesn't hurt their business.

That'll be a nice bump for yours, sounds great!

I have tomorrow off, so I'll see what I can come up with. I have to visit the dealership too since my right tail light is squeaking like crazy against the body work and driving me nuts in the car whenever I go over a bump haha.
Yes, I plan on documenting everything for you guys on youtube as there is no pulley installation videos for Fpace SVR's. Can't wait!

Ay ay capn'! good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
So I’ve figured out that if you put the ignition in accessory mode and hit the exhaust button, the valve opens 100% and stays there until the car times out and goes back to sleep.

View attachment 73864

But for the life of me, I can’t figure out how to disconnect the electrical connector! There’s the red tab on top that is easy enough to push in or pull out. Where’s the other tab to disengage the connector?
You're the man! so when you have your finger on the red tab just move it back like half an inch and you will feel some plastic that's flimsy and when you press down it will bend then you just pull and disconnect. It doesn't really feel like its meant to be pressed which is why it took me an hour just to figure out how to disconnect the damn thing.
 
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