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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning on making the exhaust a bit louder on the 2021 SVR and wanted to try and get it to sound as close to the 2020 as possible. A resonator delete seems to be the easiest/most popular route to go but I was wondering if anyone can tell me if there’s a better way to get it to sound exactly like the 2020. I attached a pic of the current exhaust setup with resonator for comparison.
73727
 

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Planning on making the exhaust a bit louder on the 2021 SVR and wanted to try and get it to sound as close to the 2020 as possible. A resonator delete seems to be the easiest/most popular route to go but I was wondering if anyone can tell me if there’s a better way to get it to sound exactly like the 2020. I attached a pic of the current exhaust setup with resonator for comparison. View attachment 73727
Hi, Its the petrol particulate filters that have changed the sounds, they are required to meet emission standards

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, Its the petrol particulate filters that have changed the sounds, they are required to meet emission standards

Andrew
I live in the U.S. where they’re not required. I wonder if they still install it. Would I be able to tell without taking apart the exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Just found on the USA spec sheet where it says the gasoline particulate filter comes standard :( this isn’t just a bummer because of the sound but I’ve read where it affects performance as well..
 

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Just found on the USA spec sheet where it says the gasoline particulate filter comes standard :( this isn’t just a bummer because of the sound but I’ve read where it affects performance as well..
Oh, that sucks, what spec sheet was this and where can I find it? Thx...

Either we are totally screwed and the particulate filter is built into the inside of the cat convertors or its a small looking think in the exhaust tubing somewhere, a few inches wide with some electrical connectors? Wouldn't this be mentioned in the owner's manual? Does the filter ever need cleaning/replacement?

Well crap it is in the OM: Jaguar Owner Information

Still want to see where the USA spec sheet says it is now on gasoline engines.

Performance is up at least in torques, not sure what effects will be if it is removed?
 

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Just found on the USA spec sheet where it says the gasoline particulate filter comes standard :( this isn’t just a bummer because of the sound but I’ve read where it affects performance as well..
I drove me buddy's 2020 SVR and then drove mine back to back. The 2020 definitely has a lot more holligan character from a sound perspective. My 2021 sounds like its been detuned in comparison. I assume its in the exhaust and possibly the bypass exhaust gates only open when you have the pedeal to the medal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm starting a thread over on JaguarForums and i'll give you guys the link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Europe focused: Excellent video, F Type mentioned at 3:19, worth watching the whole video though....

Did a little more digging and found out through this video that Porsche started doing this last year with their US model Cayman GT4's. Good news and bad news. Good news is that there's a possibility that Jaguar installed the gpf but left out the sensors/monitoring equipment in the US models because gpf's aren't regulated here. That would mean we could simply get the ppf cut out and replaced with pipe and go on our way with a much louder exhaust. Bad news is, if they left the sensors in, we would not only have to cut out the ppf but also remap and tune the ecu so there are no errors and the car doesn't enter limp mode. This means we would spend probably upwards of $1k just to get our exhaust sounding how it SHOULD have sounded in the first place. Another thing they discuss in this video is the fact that Porsche has software embedded into the ECU that keeps the valves shut most of the time and only opens them up in certain rev ranges no matter what mode you are in. I'm thinking this could be the case with our 2021's as well because I notice that the only time it really barks is right when you get on it from either a stop or a really low gear. Otherwise its just kind of this low burble. Again, I could be wrong about all of this but I'm going to try and pick the brain of someone from Jaguars service department and I'm hoping they can give me at least a modicum of information.

 

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73755


For what it's worth I asked Jaguar (via Instagram) this specific question prior to ordering my '21 SVR. he stated that we do not have the particulate filter in the US, but rather the sound is related to newer US noise regulations. this makes sense. my SVR gets plenty loud in the right rev ranges.
 

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View attachment 73755

For what it's worth I asked Jaguar (via Instagram) this specific question prior to ordering my '21 SVR. he stated that we do not have the particulate filter in the US, but rather the sound is related to newer US noise regulations. this makes sense. my SVR gets plenty loud in the right rev ranges.
As expected. I suspect a slight de-tune to control the pops and gurgles especially at lower RPMs and a software change to limit the opening of the exhaust valves. I need to locate the exhaust valves and mount a GoPro to monitor their operation during different driving conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As expected. I suspect a slight de-tune to control the pops and gurgles especially at lower RPMs and a software change to limit the opening of the exhaust valves. I need to locate the exhaust valves and mount a GoPro to monitor their operation during different driving conditions.
I was going to try and locate the vacuum line for the exhaust and disconnect it. However, theres a chance the valves would stay closed rather than open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
got the valves open permanently and it certainly sounds more aggressive in the lower rev ranges. More pops and bangs as well. No error codes or anything of that nature. Only thing is they're not fully open, they're open about halfway. I'm going to do some more testing to see if I can get them open fully.
 

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got the valves open permanently and it certainly sounds more aggressive in the lower rev ranges. More pops and bangs as well. No error codes or anything of that nature. Only thing is they're not fully open, they're open about halfway. I'm going to do some more testing to see if I can get them open fully.
That's great news. What did you do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What you’re going to want to do is get up under the rear exhaust. Adjacent to where the valve is located on the outside of the pipe you’re gonna find an electronic connection. You’re gonna find a little red tab, get a tiny screwdriver or if your fingers are small enough push that tab in. Once it’s pushed in youre going to pull it to ensure it’s fully extended. Then right underneath that you will feel a plastic tab that you depress which will allow you to pull and disconnect the valve connector. Now that you know how to do it, plug it back in but leave everything ready to be disconnected again. Do the same to the other side. Then you’re gonna wanna turn on your vehicle and make sure it’s in dynamic and drive around for 5 mins or so to let it warm up and allow the valves to open. Take it back home and do not turn it off, make sure that auto stop start is off. Get out and put some gloves on so you don’t burn yourself on the exhaust, look down the pipes to ensure both valves are open and then quickly disconnect each connector. Wrap them in electrical tape and fasten them in place and boom your valves will stay open until you plug the connectors back in. I wasn’t able to get mine to open completely only about halfway. However, I haven’t really tried again so maybe try driving it for a bit longer or give it some aggressive pulls and see if that opens the valves completely before you unplug the connectors.
 

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What you’re going to want to do is get up under the rear exhaust. Adjacent to where the valve is located on the outside of the pipe you’re gonna find an electronic connection. You’re gonna find a little red tab, get a tiny screwdriver or if your fingers are small enough push that tab in. Once it’s pushed in youre going to pull it to ensure it’s fully extended. Then right underneath that you will feel a plastic tab that you depress which will allow you to pull and disconnect the valve connector. Now that you know how to do it, plug it back in but leave everything ready to be disconnected again. Do the same to the other side. Then you’re gonna wanna turn on your vehicle and make sure it’s in dynamic and drive around for 5 mins or so to let it warm up and allow the valves to open. Take it back home and do not turn it off, make sure that auto stop start is off. Get out and put some gloves on so you don’t burn yourself on the exhaust, look down the pipes to ensure both valves are open and then quickly disconnect each connector. Wrap them in electrical tape and fasten them in place and boom your valves will stay open until you plug the connectors back in. I wasn’t able to get mine to open completely only about halfway. However, I haven’t really tried again so maybe try driving it for a bit longer or give it some aggressive pulls and see if that opens the valves completely before you unplug the connectors.
Thanks for this. Very helpful!

Without power, you should be able to positiong the valves manually to fully open?

If the ECU doesn't check valve position, then I should be able to run power to the valve through a SPST switch. This will allow the valve to power full open, though I wonder if the valve provides feedback that it is fully open / closed (limit switch)? If it does, I would have to install relay to kill power once fully open / closed to keep from burning up the electric motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for this. Very helpful!

Without power, you should be able to positiong the valves manually to fully open?

If the ECU doesn't check valve position, then I should be able to run power to the valve through a SPST switch. This will allow the valve to power full open, though I wonder if the valve provides feedback that it is fully open / closed (limit switch)? If it does, I would have to install relay to kill power once fully open / closed to keep from burning up the electric motor.
I thought the same thing, I fiddled with them for about 10 minutes last night trying to get them fully open and I’m pretty sure they’re spring loaded. At least that’s what it felt like because I used a long metal stick to apply pressure and was able to get them fully open but as soon as pressure was released it would go back to pretty much the same spot.
That would be super convenient! If you’re able to do that I’m gonna need a bit of a tutorial because I know what the switch and relay are but I have no idea how you’d get it to open the valves.
 
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