Jaguar F-Pace Forum banner

Audio signal? Subwoofer

46K views 58 replies 23 participants last post by  nankatape 
#1 ·
Greeting! New to the forum, thanks for having me.

Quick question.. how to I source an Audio signal for a small aftermarket subwoofer?

Im stumped accessing the driver side subwoofer. Any tricks to the trade?

Thank you!
 
#2 ·
Any chance someone could check out TOPIX for following:


(Meridian 825w system (2018) SUB wire signal colors :

A_POS: VT-GN is PURPLE with GREEN strip
A_NEG: GN-WH is GREEN with WHITE strip
B_POS: WH-BN is WHITE with BROWN strip
B:NEG: VT-OG is PURPLE with ORANGE strip
 
#49 ·
Any chance someone could check out TOPIX for following:


(Meridian 825w system (2018) SUB wire signal colors :

A_POS: VT-GN is PURPLE with GREEN strip
A_NEG: GN-WH is GREEN with WHITE strip
B_POS: WH-BN is WHITE with BROWN strip
B:NEG: VT-OG is PURPLE with ORANGE strip
@Architect Are these wires confirmed to be the subwoofer wires for 825W Meridian system. I take it the 825W system has 2 subwoofers hence they're being 2 sets of positive and 2 sets of negative subwoofer wires? Or is there maybe 1 subwoofer but its dual voice coil hence the 2 sets of wires?
 
#3 ·
Well after searching all over the web, I finally did the 1 hour topix subscription and pull together enough evidence to get into it.

1) The subwoofer is in the drivers fenderwell (huh?). You have to pull the wheel, and both liners. Not going to happen. Factory amp, nope too much. My goal - what’s the easiest, cleanest install with minimal impact and reversabable.

2) According to the wire harness, speaker wires (positive / negitive) are twisted together. Lot easier to find.

3) Wire harness mentioned above runs through the spare tire department. So no need to remove panels or mess with fender liners. In fact, I didn’t pull one single panel.

Super easy install. I used the bolt stubs within the battery compartment to fasten my amp down. It was a near perfect fit. No screws, holes, etc. Just a few metric nuts and washers.

Battery (+) straight to positive manifold (see pics) with fuse

Battery (-) to body using existing bolt stub (metric)

Remote (switched +) used a mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp. The aftermarket amp only needs .5 amps to switch on

Signal - see pics for wire color. Used taps too, so that I can remove with minimal evidence. Only picked on channel, it’s subs.

Installed Lc2i to clean up the signal. Curious if needed, my Mercedes needed it really bad.

What’s great, I can control through the subwoofer settings on touch screen (like a remote knob).

See pics of install (before wire loop and finally clean up)

I know this isn’t everyone’s cups of tea... Cheers!
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Ok, nobody answered, so I will. Yes the wires under the place marked red on my photo.
I have 380W system. Disconnected the jags subwoofer and the signal connected to my new one, it works fine.
But can not understand about the remote wire, I did the same as mentioned before:
"Remote (switched +) used a mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp."
But my active sub was always switched on, waited for 15-30 minutes, closed the car but it did not help.
Who can advice where is better to connect the remote?
 
#4 ·
Great pictures and information. What sub did you go with and did you take any pictures of it installed. Did you remove the factory one and install the new one? Or add the new one. Also what can you control from the front screen the sub level?

Thanks
DP
 
#5 ·
can you tell me exactly what wires you tapped into for the signal?

Signal - see pics for wire color. Used taps too, so that I can remove with minimal evidence. Only picked on channel, it’s subs.

Looks like blue with red stripe & solid brown? Which is positive and which is negative?

thanks for any help
 
#6 ·
Hook up a sub in my F Pace this weekend and followed these instructions and it was pretty easy setup. Only difference I had to tap the rear cargo auxiliary power (cig lighter) for the remote wire because the stereo fuse kept the amp on all the time for some reason.
 
#9 ·
Hey all,

Wires for the factory subwoofer in the 325W system are indeed in the same harness and in twisted pairs, but for whatever reason are colored differently. They are as follows:

Sub 1 + : Red
Sub 1 - : Yellow
Sub 2 + : Red
Sub 2 - : Grey

The factory sub is dual voice coil, so polarity matters, but not left and right (i.e. the sub is getting a mono signal from the amp). I threw in a picture of it because of how oddly it's mounted in the vehicle. It looks to be a 4th order bandpass, using a metal pod as an enclosure on the inside of the fender. Never seen anything like it.

For reference, we put in a Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST in the spare tire well and I was completely blown away at how impressive this sub sounds, even with all the paneling placed over top. I highly recommend it for this vehicle.
71265
71266
 
#10 ·
Hey all,

Wires for the factory subwoofer in the 325W system are indeed in the same harness and in twisted pairs, but for whatever reason are colored differently. They are as follows:

Sub 1 + : Red
Sub 1 - : Yellow
Sub 2 + : Red
Sub 2 - : Grey

The factory sub is dual voice coil, so polarity matters, but not left and right (i.e. the sub is getting a mono signal from the amp). I threw in a picture of it because of how oddly it's mounted in the vehicle. It looks to be a 4th order bandpass, using a metal pod as an enclosure on the inside of the fender. Never seen anything like it.

For reference, we put in a Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST in the spare tire well and I was completely blown away at how impressive this sub sounds, even with all the paneling placed over top. I highly recommend it for this vehicle.

Can you post a picture of the sub installed

DP
 
#25 ·
With the warm weather arriving, I also took some time to install my supplementary subwoofer. It makes a huge difference in the enjoyment of the standard 380W Meridian system — some strategic sound deadening and adding a centre channel are next up and should make the sound much more acceptable.
I used an old school Alpine amp that I bought new in the ‘90s, and built a plate to secure the amp to the existing studs in the spare tire well. Bridged, running mixed mono, into a 12” shallow mount Pioneer sub.
Thanks to the OP for posting the wiring codes for the subwoofer feeds.
72509
Electrical wiring Wire Technology Electrical supply Electronic device
 
#28 ·
Thanks. I used a dremmel to file it down, but managed to rethread the bottom post as I twisted the large plastic wheel nut off. I also took out the foam tire spacer under the tire and can just get the post far enough and the tire low enough to not stick up on the trunk mat/cover. Did you use the Cerwin Vega remote? If so, what route did you take it? Not sure if I need it.... about to finalize. Also putting in the wireless carplay solution and a center speaker this week (using an infinity 4" ref and wiring to left and right front signals when doing the wireless car play install.
 
#29 ·
Glad I could help! Yeah, I forgot I also took out the foam mat under the floor cover. I did use the remote, but once i adjusted it to the level I liked, I simply tucked it away in the spare compartment. I'm interested in the center speaker install. Let me know how you installed and wired it. Not sure I want to disassemble the dash if that's needed. BTW, if you hear a rattle with the sub, check the handle on the floor cover. I had to use a little padding under the handle which corrected the rattle.
 
#30 ·
Hey Joc, I ended up using a grommet and pulling the remote cable through the small factory hole in the arm box, routing the cable under the mat and rear seats to the cargo area and amp. I put a grommet around the cable to clean it up and protect it. I had to pull the side panel to the arm box and drill a small hole to get the wire through.
 
#31 ·
Sounds like a nice job! You'll need a hole in the arm box anyway for the UAD USB connector (as Jaggy nicely demonstrated) if you use it. Like I said, repeatedly adjusting the remote wasn't that important to me. I think I tweaked it once or twice after listening to various bass sources. It's now permanently adjusted as far as I'm concerned!
 
#33 · (Edited)
Got my 2020 F pace last Friday. I am going to give this a try seems simple enough. Thanks to everyone who posted here. A few things. Thanks Jocdoc and others



I am going to use an amp with a separate sub I have. Some people were using a line out convertor The Lc2i or
PAC LP7-2 L.O.C. PRO Series 2-Channel Line. Not sure how I power the line out convertor. Everything else seems simple. The remote wire install may be different now. I run the remote wire to the fuses like everyone else did. Not sure if it gets different having a line out convertor with the wiring.

Any advice before I do my install would be appreciated
 
#43 · (Edited)
Brandon Insleys post on the wire colors for the 380 are not what is in my vehicle. I I took the wheel off and finally found the sub woofer. This is for the 2020 F Pace 380 system. Meanwhile the sub woofer does not work. Jag is going to look at it tomorrow. Once I have it working and know the wires are good I will hook up the amp and sub. When looking, its the thicker of the wires that are in the harness. Maybe around 16 gauge.

73105
 
#45 ·
#48 ·
Hi all, Did this today, with minimal frustrations. Thanks to this helpful thread!

I have a 2017 S and my wire colours matched the purple/grey, brown/blue. Only odd thing was when wiring both channels of the high level inputs (both pairs), there was no audio from the sub, when using just 1 pair, success!

I presume, given its a dual voice coil sub (325W system) this doesn't actually matter as both channels are 'mono' anyway? Either way, it's still bugging me, any ideas what I did wrong?
 
#52 ·
i noticed you asked about the wiring setup for the 325W system. Were you able to obtain anything? I am currently setting one up and was reaching out if you had any information
I was able to figure out the correct wires for the 825W Meridian system. It's been a while but I believe the stock subwoofer is dual voice coil meaning there are 2 sets of positive and negative wires for the stock sub. The blue wire with the brown stripe is positive and the solid brown wire is negative for one of the voice coils. See attached pics

I ended up going with a JBL Stadium Bass Hub since it has 600W RMS power handling and needs to be powered by an external app. The JBL Basspro Hub only has 200W RMS and is powered by its own internal amp so it's a cheaper solution but with less output. I'm powering it with a Rockford Fosgate T750X1BD which has a small footprint and puts out 750W RMS. For the LOC I'm using a Kicker 47Keyloc although an Audio Control lc2i or lc21 pro probably would have done the job.

It doesn't shake the rear view a lot or put out mind numbing bass but for what it is and the space savings I'm very satisfied and it's a noticeable improvement over stock.

I should probably clean up my wiring. LOL

Blue Automotive tire Gas Electrical wiring Electric blue
Hood Automotive tire Electrical wiring Cable Automotive exterior
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Alloy wheel Automotive design
Electricity Electrical wiring Computer hardware Cable Gas
 
#53 · (Edited)
Greeting! New to the forum, thanks for having me.

Quick question.. how to I source an Audio signal for a small aftermarket subwoofer?

Im stumped accessing the driver side subwoofer. Any tricks to the trade?
Thank you!
What sub did you go with and did you take any pictures of it installed. Did you remove the factory one and install the new one? Or add the new one. Also what can you control from the front screen the sub level?
 
#55 ·
Hi i have jaguar xf s 2017 with meridian 325 system i have sub in the wheel arch i have taken out the boot kick panel and have access to wiring underneath but the twisted colours for wiring does not match the wiring colours provided on here for the 325 system to tap in to for sub.. please see picture attached can any one please advise which wire colours i can tap into thank you
 
Top