Jaguar F-Pace Forum banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
It will be interesting to see the result, good luck!
And by the way, if you will find the better connection for the remote wire, pls tell us.
Since I'll be using speaker level inputs to the Cerwin Vega, I shouldn't need to use a remote turn-on. Which sub and amp did you use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
I use active sub Alpine, and the only problem of it that it needs the remote.
Well, I finally installed the Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST. The install went well other than the screw down clamp for the spare. The screw is not quite long enough in it's factory condition and needed an adjustment to work. I'll be happy to explain how I made it work if anyone has this issue. Thank you all for the detailed instructions and pics identifying the appropriate wires to tap and feed the Cerwin Vega. There was no need to remove any trim pieces and speaker and power wiring was all within a couple of feet in the spare tire compartment. Instead of disconnecting the factory sub, I simply tapped the 4 wires to the factory sub and fed them to the speaker level input of the CV. In this way, the factory sub is still involved and both speakers can be adjusted by the Jag head unit. The sound improvement is phenomenal! The aftermarket Apple CarPlay unit has a reasonable EQ that really expands the "headroom" and nicely balances the increased low end. My wife is jealous and is asking me to install the sub in her Volvo XC-40. We bought the car late in the year and couldn't find one with the high performance Harmon Kardon sound system. Starting my research today!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Damirich

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
With the warm weather arriving, I also took some time to install my supplementary subwoofer. It makes a huge difference in the enjoyment of the standard 380W Meridian system — some strategic sound deadening and adding a centre channel are next up and should make the sound much more acceptable.
I used an old school Alpine amp that I bought new in the ‘90s, and built a plate to secure the amp to the existing studs in the spare tire well. Bridged, running mixed mono, into a 12” shallow mount Pioneer sub.
Thanks to the OP for posting the wiring codes for the subwoofer feeds.
72509
08453B43-54E1-41AE-B27F-7008D5618730.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Well, I finally installed the Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST. The install went well other than the screw down clamp for the spare. The screw is not quite long enough in it's factory condition and needed an adjustment to work. I'll be happy to explain how I made it work if anyone has this issue. Thank you all for the detailed instructions and pics identifying the appropriate wires to tap and feed the Cerwin Vega. There was no need to remove any trim pieces and speaker and power wiring was all within a couple of feet in the spare tire compartment. Instead of disconnecting the factory sub, I simply tapped the 4 wires to the factory sub and fed them to the speaker level input of the CV. In this way, the factory sub is still involved and both speakers can be adjusted by the Jag head unit. The sound improvement is phenomenal! The aftermarket Apple CarPlay unit has a reasonable EQ that really expands the "headroom" and nicely balances the increased low end. My wife is jealous and is asking me to install the sub in her Volvo XC-40. We bought the car late in the year and couldn't find one with the high performance Harmon Kardon sound system. Starting my research today!
So I'm doing the same install, and have a similar issue with the tire post. Curious to know what you did to solve it. I'm considering whipping out my dremmel to cut off the plastic tire screw, as I think that would solve but would take some work and might destroy the tire piece, but it would make everything fit pretty well.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
So I'm doing the same install, and have a similar issue with the tire post. Curious to know what you did to solve it. I'm considering whipping out my dremmel to cut off the plastic tire screw, as I think that would solve but would take some work and might destroy the tire piece, but it would make everything fit pretty well.....
Hey tweaker. So, I had the same thought about removing the plastic knob. I took the device to my local Ace Hardware store for some advice. We decided to grind off the metal stops at the bottom of the screw in order to remove (unscrew) the knob. This allowed me to screw the bottom end of the device further into the fixed nut attached to the car and to then fasten the Cerwin Vega down on top. I still needed a few washers and I used the black gasket that comes with the speaker accessories to make the knob tightened the speaker appropriately. Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Thanks. I used a dremmel to file it down, but managed to rethread the bottom post as I twisted the large plastic wheel nut off. I also took out the foam tire spacer under the tire and can just get the post far enough and the tire low enough to not stick up on the trunk mat/cover. Did you use the Cerwin Vega remote? If so, what route did you take it? Not sure if I need it.... about to finalize. Also putting in the wireless carplay solution and a center speaker this week (using an infinity 4" ref and wiring to left and right front signals when doing the wireless car play install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Glad I could help! Yeah, I forgot I also took out the foam mat under the floor cover. I did use the remote, but once i adjusted it to the level I liked, I simply tucked it away in the spare compartment. I'm interested in the center speaker install. Let me know how you installed and wired it. Not sure I want to disassemble the dash if that's needed. BTW, if you hear a rattle with the sub, check the handle on the floor cover. I had to use a little padding under the handle which corrected the rattle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Hey Joc, I ended up using a grommet and pulling the remote cable through the small factory hole in the arm box, routing the cable under the mat and rear seats to the cargo area and amp. I put a grommet around the cable to clean it up and protect it. I had to pull the side panel to the arm box and drill a small hole to get the wire through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Hey Joc, I ended up using a grommet and pulling the remote cable through the small factory hole in the arm box, routing the cable under the mat and rear seats to the cargo area and amp. I put a grommet around the cable to clean it up and protect it. I had to pull the side panel to the arm box and drill a small hole to get the wire through.
Sounds like a nice job! You'll need a hole in the arm box anyway for the UAD USB connector (as Jaggy nicely demonstrated) if you use it. Like I said, repeatedly adjusting the remote wasn't that important to me. I think I tweaked it once or twice after listening to various bass sources. It's now permanently adjusted as far as I'm concerned!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Well after searching all over the web, I finally did the 1 hour topix subscription and pull together enough evidence to get into it.

1) The subwoofer is in the drivers fenderwell (huh?). You have to pull the wheel, and both liners. Not going to happen. Factory amp, nope too much. My goal - what’s the easiest, cleanest install with minimal impact and reversabable.

2) According to the wire harness, speaker wires (positive / negitive) are twisted together. Lot easier to find.

3) Wire harness mentioned above runs through the spare tire department. So no need to remove panels or mess with fender liners. In fact, I didn’t pull one single panel.

Super easy install. I used the bolt stubs within the battery compartment to fasten my amp down. It was a near perfect fit. No screws, holes, etc. Just a few metric nuts and washers.

Battery (+) straight to positive manifold (see pics) with fuse

Battery (-) to body using existing bolt stub (metric)

Remote (switched +) used a mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp. The aftermarket amp only needs .5 amps to switch on

Signal - see pics for wire color. Used taps too, so that I can remove with minimal evidence. Only picked on channel, it’s subs.

Installed Lc2i to clean up the signal. Curious if needed, my Mercedes needed it really bad.

What’s great, I can control through the subwoofer settings on touch screen (like a remote knob).

See pics of install (before wire loop and finally clean up)

I know this isn’t everyone’s cups of tea... Cheers!
Great install!! I recently started my install and followed your instructions. I have everything wired and have all lights on my level converter and amplifier but i can’t get any sound to play to the subs? Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top