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Ok, will make a answer by myself once more :)
The subwoofer connection is done and I'm satisfied with what and how I've done. All wires are layed as at the factory, everything is neatly and securely connected.
The remote cable is connected to mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp, it has strange shutdown algorithm after about 15 minutes.
So if anyone have questions about connecting and upgrading 380W system you are welcome, will be glad to help you.
Hi Damirich, I'm installing a Cerwin Vega spare tire sub with it's own enclosed amp. I have the 380W system as well. 2 questions, how did you "disconnect the jag subwoofer," and what speaker level wires did you connect to your sub amp in the spare rear storage compartment? Thanks for your help!
 

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Hi!
I just cut the wires, and made the connectors on them, so when I will need to connect them back, I will just connect them into this connectors.
And I have changed connection of the remote cable, because it works strange "into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp".
The remote now connected to the fuse of the lighter socket fuse.
Thanks for the reply. From Brandon's post above (#9) it appears there are 4 wires to the OEM subwoofer. Do I need to cut all 4 to disconnect the sub? Does it matter which pair you use for the aftermarket sub? Thanks again.
 

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No, I don't want to mix factory sub with questionable quality and normal sub, moreover there is enough power of the new one.
Appreciate your assistance. Will let you know how my installation goes!
 

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It will be interesting to see the result, good luck!
And by the way, if you will find the better connection for the remote wire, pls tell us.
Since I'll be using speaker level inputs to the Cerwin Vega, I shouldn't need to use a remote turn-on. Which sub and amp did you use?
 

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I use active sub Alpine, and the only problem of it that it needs the remote.
Well, I finally installed the Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST. The install went well other than the screw down clamp for the spare. The screw is not quite long enough in it's factory condition and needed an adjustment to work. I'll be happy to explain how I made it work if anyone has this issue. Thank you all for the detailed instructions and pics identifying the appropriate wires to tap and feed the Cerwin Vega. There was no need to remove any trim pieces and speaker and power wiring was all within a couple of feet in the spare tire compartment. Instead of disconnecting the factory sub, I simply tapped the 4 wires to the factory sub and fed them to the speaker level input of the CV. In this way, the factory sub is still involved and both speakers can be adjusted by the Jag head unit. The sound improvement is phenomenal! The aftermarket Apple CarPlay unit has a reasonable EQ that really expands the "headroom" and nicely balances the increased low end. My wife is jealous and is asking me to install the sub in her Volvo XC-40. We bought the car late in the year and couldn't find one with the high performance Harmon Kardon sound system. Starting my research today!
 
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So I'm doing the same install, and have a similar issue with the tire post. Curious to know what you did to solve it. I'm considering whipping out my dremmel to cut off the plastic tire screw, as I think that would solve but would take some work and might destroy the tire piece, but it would make everything fit pretty well.....
Hey tweaker. So, I had the same thought about removing the plastic knob. I took the device to my local Ace Hardware store for some advice. We decided to grind off the metal stops at the bottom of the screw in order to remove (unscrew) the knob. This allowed me to screw the bottom end of the device further into the fixed nut attached to the car and to then fasten the Cerwin Vega down on top. I still needed a few washers and I used the black gasket that comes with the speaker accessories to make the knob tightened the speaker appropriately. Hope this helps!
 

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Glad I could help! Yeah, I forgot I also took out the foam mat under the floor cover. I did use the remote, but once i adjusted it to the level I liked, I simply tucked it away in the spare compartment. I'm interested in the center speaker install. Let me know how you installed and wired it. Not sure I want to disassemble the dash if that's needed. BTW, if you hear a rattle with the sub, check the handle on the floor cover. I had to use a little padding under the handle which corrected the rattle.
 

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Hey Joc, I ended up using a grommet and pulling the remote cable through the small factory hole in the arm box, routing the cable under the mat and rear seats to the cargo area and amp. I put a grommet around the cable to clean it up and protect it. I had to pull the side panel to the arm box and drill a small hole to get the wire through.
Sounds like a nice job! You'll need a hole in the arm box anyway for the UAD USB connector (as Jaggy nicely demonstrated) if you use it. Like I said, repeatedly adjusting the remote wasn't that important to me. I think I tweaked it once or twice after listening to various bass sources. It's now permanently adjusted as far as I'm concerned!
 
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