[Architect]

Greeting! New to the forum, thanks for having me.

Quick question.. how to I source an Audio signal for a small aftermarket subwoofer?

Im stumped accessing the driver side subwoofer. Any tricks to the trade?

Thank you!

 

[Architect]

Any chance someone could check out TOPIX for following:


(Meridian 825w system (2018) SUB wire signal colors :

A_POS: VT-GN is PURPLE with GREEN strip
A_NEG: GN-WH is GREEN with WHITE strip
B_POS: WH-BN is WHITE with BROWN strip
B:NEG: VT-OG is PURPLE with ORANGE strip

 

[Architect]

Well after searching all over the web, I finally did the 1 hour topix subscription and pull together enough evidence to get into it.

1) The subwoofer is in the drivers fenderwell (huh?). You have to pull the wheel, and both liners. Not going to happen. Factory amp, nope too much. My goal - what’s the easiest, cleanest install with minimal impact and reversabable.

2) According to the wire harness, speaker wires (positive / negitive) are twisted together. Lot easier to find.

3) Wire harness mentioned above runs through the spare tire department. So no need to remove panels or mess with fender liners. In fact, I didn’t pull one single panel.

Super easy install. I used the bolt stubs within the battery compartment to fasten my amp down. It was a near perfect fit. No screws, holes, etc. Just a few metric nuts and washers.

Battery (+) straight to positive manifold (see pics) with fuse

Battery (-) to body using existing bolt stub (metric)

Remote (switched +) used a mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp. The aftermarket amp only needs .5 amps to switch on

Signal - see pics for wire color. Used taps too, so that I can remove with minimal evidence. Only picked on channel, it’s subs.

Installed Lc2i to clean up the signal. Curious if needed, my Mercedes needed it really bad.

What’s great, I can control through the subwoofer settings on touch screen (like a remote knob).

See pics of install (before wire loop and finally clean up)

I know this isn’t everyone’s cups of tea... Cheers!

 

[DPinTX]

Great pictures and information. What sub did you go with and did you take any pictures of it installed. Did you remove the factory one and install the new one? Or add the new one. Also what can you control from the front screen the sub level?

Thanks
DP

 

[kaarona1]

can you tell me exactly what wires you tapped into for the signal?

Signal - see pics for wire color. Used taps too, so that I can remove with minimal evidence. Only picked on channel, it’s subs.

Looks like blue with red stripe & solid brown? Which is positive and which is negative?

thanks for any help

 

[kaarona1]

Hook up a sub in my F Pace this weekend and followed these instructions and it was pretty easy setup. Only difference I had to tap the rear cargo auxiliary power (cig lighter) for the remote wire because the stereo fuse kept the amp on all the time for some reason.

 

[Kask]

So does anyone have the rear wire diagram for the 380w system to tap off of .. all my wire color pairs are way different

 

[Christian Santos]

Yes, if anybody has a diagram for the 325W it would very appreciative
i noticed you asked about the wiring setup for the 325W system. Were you able to obtain anything? I am currently setting one up and was reaching out if you had any information

 

[Brandon Insley]

Hey all,

Wires for the factory subwoofer in the 325W system are indeed in the same harness and in twisted pairs, but for whatever reason are colored differently. They are as follows:

Sub 1 + : Red
Sub 1 - : Yellow
Sub 2 + : Red
Sub 2 - : Grey

The factory sub is dual voice coil, so polarity matters, but not left and right (i.e. the sub is getting a mono signal from the amp). I threw in a picture of it because of how oddly it's mounted in the vehicle. It looks to be a 4th order bandpass, using a metal pod as an enclosure on the inside of the fender. Never seen anything like it.

For reference, we put in a Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST in the spare tire well and I was completely blown away at how impressive this sub sounds, even with all the paneling placed over top. I highly recommend it for this vehicle.

 

[DPinTX]

Hey all,

Wires for the factory subwoofer in the 325W system are indeed in the same harness and in twisted pairs, but for whatever reason are colored differently. They are as follows:

Sub 1 + : Red
Sub 1 - : Yellow
Sub 2 + : Red
Sub 2 - : Grey

The factory sub is dual voice coil, so polarity matters, but not left and right (i.e. the sub is getting a mono signal from the amp). I threw in a picture of it because of how oddly it's mounted in the vehicle. It looks to be a 4th order bandpass, using a metal pod as an enclosure on the inside of the fender. Never seen anything like it.

For reference, we put in a Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST in the spare tire well and I was completely blown away at how impressive this sub sounds, even with all the paneling placed over top. I highly recommend it for this vehicle.

Can you post a picture of the sub installed

DP

 

[Damirich]

3) Wire harness mentioned above runs through the spare tire department. So no need to remove panels or mess with fender liners. In fact, I didn’t pull one single panel.

Hi, do you mean the wires are under the place I marked red on the photo?

 

[Damirich]

Hi, do you mean the wires are under the place I marked red on the photo?

Ok, nobody answered, so I will. Yes the wires under the place marked red on my photo.
I have 380W system. Disconnected the jags subwoofer and the signal connected to my new one, it works fine.
But can not understand about the remote wire, I did the same as mentioned before:
"Remote (switched +) used a mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp."
But my active sub was always switched on, waited for 15-30 minutes, closed the car but it did not help.
Who can advice where is better to connect the remote?

 

[Damirich]

Who can advice where is better to connect the remote?

Ok, will make a answer by myself once more
The subwoofer connection is done and I'm satisfied with what and how I've done. All wires are layed as at the factory, everything is neatly and securely connected.
The remote cable is connected to mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp, it has strange shutdown algorithm after about 15 minutes.
So if anyone have questions about connecting and upgrading 380W system you are welcome, will be glad to help you.

 

[JocDoc]

Ok, will make a answer by myself once more
The subwoofer connection is done and I'm satisfied with what and how I've done. All wires are layed as at the factory, everything is neatly and securely connected.
The remote cable is connected to mini fuse tap, plugged into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp, it has strange shutdown algorithm after about 15 minutes.
So if anyone have questions about connecting and upgrading 380W system you are welcome, will be glad to help you.

Hi Damirich, I'm installing a Cerwin Vega spare tire sub with it's own enclosed amp. I have the 380W system as well. 2 questions, how did you "disconnect the jag subwoofer," and what speaker level wires did you connect to your sub amp in the spare rear storage compartment? Thanks for your help!

 

[Damirich]

Hi Damirich, I'm installing a Cerwin Vega spare tire sub with it's own enclosed amp. I have the 380W system as well. 2 questions, how did you "disconnect the jag subwoofer," and what speaker level wires did you connect to your sub amp in the spare rear storage compartment? Thanks for your help!

Hi!
I just cut the wires, and made the connectors on them, so when I will need to connect them back, I will just connect them into this connectors.
And I have changed connection of the remote cable, because it works strange "into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp".
The remote now connected to the fuse of the lighter socket fuse.

 

[JocDoc]

Hi!
I just cut the wires, and made the connectors on them, so when I will need to connect them back, I will just connect them into this connectors.
And I have changed connection of the remote cable, because it works strange "into second (10 amp) fuse labeled stereo amp".
The remote now connected to the fuse of the lighter socket fuse.

Thanks for the reply. From Brandon's post above (#9) it appears there are 4 wires to the OEM subwoofer. Do I need to cut all 4 to disconnect the sub? Does it matter which pair you use for the aftermarket sub? Thanks again.

 

[Damirich]

Thanks for the reply. From Brandon's post above (#9) it appears there are 4 wires to the OEM subwoofer. Do I need to cut all 4 to disconnect the sub? Does it matter which pair you use for the aftermarket sub? Thanks again.

You can see the wires on my photo, I used all 4 of them, subwoofer amplifier has 2 channel high-level input.

 

[JocDoc]

You can see the wires on my photo, I used all 4 of them, subwoofer amplifier has 2 channel high-level input.
View attachment 72412

Ah, perfect! Did you ever consider keeping the factory sub in the system for extra punch?

 

[Damirich]

Ah, perfect! Did you ever consider keeping the factory sub in the system for extra punch?

No, I don't want to mix factory sub with questionable quality and normal sub, moreover there is enough power of the new one.

 

[JocDoc]

No, I don't want to mix factory sub with questionable quality and normal sub, moreover there is enough power of the new one.

Appreciate your assistance. Will let you know how my installation goes!