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Just pulled system firmware notes:
system: 4.0.0.R8.12/16/19 15:00.e56348f
UI version: mini2.2 (2019-12-16 15:00)
SDK version: 25.0.0.4.0.0.12.4
MCU: Dec22019 15:19:24 V0.1
 

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I've sent out some e-mails, I think my firmware was from December of 2019, so maybe I need an update? Doc, did the new firmware reset your settings? I may need to take a pic so that I don't have to start over ;) I noticed mention of it working with factory cameras, but when it works, I still have to long press the home key to see my camera when in reverse. Same for you guys?
Hey Tweaker. Yeah, the update did reset my settings. I had the same 12/19 version as you posted above. I had to completely readjust the EQ (argh!). It's actually a significant upgrade offering independent volume control for media, phone and navigation sounds. Also better and faster airplay connection with my iPhone. Not exactly sure if/how it affects the power connection from the Jag head unit to the UAD. The folks at UAD are very helpful. I've had multiple chats with them.
 

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....so I saw someone mention that voltage fluctuations kill aftermarket camera feeds similar to the dreaded carplay unit's darkness, and found some companies sell "power filters", which seem to be capacitors in a black plastic case. I cut the black and red wires going into the carplay box, assuming they were the power "in", routed through the $10 filter and no improvements. I'm still getting a black screen after the ignition on my v6 F-pace alternator kicks in half of the time. There are several other wires in the white plug going into the carplay box.... no clue if there is much else I can do and support seems confused and largely absent. I really want this to work, but I'm starting to think I might be better off just trying to build a phone stand and take out the carplay box altogether. I really dislike the jag map system (takes forever to put an address in, and speed limits seem out of date in many areas). I also liked the equalizer in the aftermarket box and I like how i've calibrated my sound set up through it.....
 

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....so I saw someone mention that voltage fluctuations kill aftermarket camera feeds similar to the dreaded carplay unit's darkness, and found some companies sell "power filters", which seem to be capacitors in a black plastic case. I cut the black and red wires going into the carplay box, assuming they were the power "in", routed through the $10 filter and no improvements. I'm still getting a black screen after the ignition on my v6 F-pace alternator kicks in half of the time. There are several other wires in the white plug going into the carplay box.... no clue if there is much else I can do and support seems confused and largely absent. I really want this to work, but I'm starting to think I might be better off just trying to build a phone stand and take out the carplay box altogether. I really dislike the jag map system (takes forever to put an address in, and speed limits seem out of date in many areas). I also liked the equalizer in the aftermarket box and I like how i've calibrated my sound set up through it.....
I'm not entirely sure the aftermarket UAD device is the only culprit in the "dreaded black screen." Other forum members have reported the same problem in their factory systems. I agree with you on the Jag navigation system. I stopped using it altogether and rely on Apple nav or Google maps, or Waze. For my purposes, I tolerate the black screen issue as an unfortunate nuisance. It would be worthwhile to further investigate this, maybe UAD has an answer?
 

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Just wanted to share with the group that I bought the Joyauto WJLR-1 ((WJLR-1)Land Rover Discovery 5 Jaguar F-Pace WiFi Wireless Apple CarPlay AirPlay Solution – Joyeauto Technology) and had it professionally installed in my 2018 F-Pace (with ICT) back in March. Since then I have been delighted with the results. Carplay works perfectly over Wifi and it had zero impact on any of the built in functions. As described in the sales materials when you are in Carplay mode the only steering wheel controls that work are the volume but that works fine for me. Like I said I had the unit professionally installed as this was well beyond my ability. @Jaggy, thank you for your thorough instructions - the installer said they were perfect. In total the unit was about $425 and the installation another $450 so for about $900 I have CarPlay working - which makes my FPace just about perfect.
I'm thinking to buy the same unit from Joyeauto. Yours is still working ok after 7 months?
 

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I think all the units are the same rebranded IDCORE tech. I’ve had some pretty bad issues with the screen going dark after the ignition kicks in, but I’m trying a lot of potential solves before giving up on it. The latest is adding a 2 farad capacitor to the distribution block in the trunk. Should finish this weekend.
 

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I think all the units are the same rebranded IDCORE tech. I’ve had some pretty bad issues with the screen going dark after the ignition kicks in, but I’m trying a lot of potential solves before giving up on it. The latest is adding a 2 farad capacitor to the distribution block in the trunk. Should finish this weekend.
Hey Tweaker, let us know how the capacitor works. I'm getting a little tired of the black screen as well.
 

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Roger that! I ordered a cheap Belva 1 farad capacitor that was faulty, so I have another arriving today I hope to install on Sunday. With a 4 gauge amp wiring kit, the install in the trunk is pretty easy, especially with the distribution block conveniently on the battery with some open slots. Don’t even need to disconnect the battery! Trickiest part was building a small platform/mount to secure to, but I used the bolts holding down the battery cage to put in some steel L brackets on which I mounted a custom table.
 

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Roger that! I ordered a cheap Belva 1 farad capacitor that was faulty, so I have another arriving today I hope to install on Sunday. With a 4 gauge amp wiring kit, the install in the trunk is pretty easy, especially with the distribution block conveniently on the battery with some open slots. Don’t even need to disconnect the battery! Trickiest part was building a small platform/mount to secure to, but I used the bolts holding down the battery cage to put in some steel L brackets on which I mounted a custom table.
If this works, please, please post pics of your install. Where did you get the info to do this, or better still, you're an electrical genius!!
 

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Hey everyone has there been any updates on this retrofit apple car play? I would like to install on my fpace with ict but I’m less inclined with these comments that people are getting a black screen half the time after a few months. I don’t have any issues using my Bluetooth for music/phone and using the navigation system or sending/receiving text messages so apple car play would be really nice but it’s not necessary for me. I just would like to do it for google maps honestly.
 

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I had a WJLR-1 installed in April of 2020 (just before the big lockdown) and have had zero (knock on wood) issues. I think a key was having it professionally installed.
 

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I had a WJLR-1 installed in April of 2020 (just before the big lockdown) and have had zero (knock on wood) issues. I think a key was having it professionally installed.
That’s great! May I ask where you got yours installed? The buttons on the steering wheel still work for volume but not skipping songs?
 

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That’s great! May I ask where you got yours installed? The buttons on the steering wheel still work for volume but not skipping songs?
I had it installed at Boomer in Nashua, NH (website here: Boomer Nashua-Automotive Installation Experts: Remote Starters and More). As mentioned in a previous post, the technician told me that installation instructions provided by @Jaggy on this forum were invaluable. If you are local to the Boston area I recommend them highly.

WRT your question about the steering wheel, the steering wheel buttons work when you use the USB cable. When your phone is connected in this manner (vs. BlueTooth) the Source shows up as iPod. When you are connected via BT the buttons do not work - I believe this is documented in the instructions. As you might expect the levels are richer when connected via the USB cable. That said, BT works great for me and I typically only use the USB cable when I'm on a long trip as Waze + BT drains the battery on my phone quickly.
 

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Well, my UAD CarPlay device has finally given up the ghost! I have permanent black screen although audio through the Jag head unit works. I'm going to have it removed next week and consider other options for CarPlay.
 

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Well, my UAD CarPlay device has finally given up the ghost! I have permanent black screen although audio through the Jag head unit works. I'm going to have it removed next week and consider other options for CarPlay.
Would you try the joyeauto one or is that the same?
 

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Would you try the joyeauto one or is that the same?
The Joyeauto looks to be the same ID Core unit as the UAD. I'm going to have a discussion with a professional installer friend about other custom options. I've really grown to love having Apple CarPlay. When the UAD was working, it was very enjoyable! Nevertheless, there were far too many blank screen interruptions.
 

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Hey Doc, the units are the same across vendors, with slight firmware diffs. Was UAD not willing to help/solve? My capacitor solution works pretty well, but I think I might try running a direct + wire from the battery distribution block to the carplay unit. I think the stereo power is coming off a circuit designed to drop voltage to the starter, and while the stereo is designed for the drop, the carplay box isn't. The only concern of a direct wire would be whether it would leech power or still auto shut off....
 

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Hey Doc, the units are the same across vendors, with slight firmware diffs. Was UAD not willing to help/solve? My capacitor solution works pretty well, but I think I might try running a direct + wire from the battery distribution block to the carplay unit. I think the stereo power is coming off a circuit designed to drop voltage to the starter, and while the stereo is designed for the drop, the carplay box isn't. The only concern of a direct wire would be whether it would leech power or still auto shut off....
To add one more comment on this, I noticed that I almost never get the black screen if I start the car after the jag logo appears but before the carplay box has booted.... The window was small, but dramatically increased with the small capacitor i put in line to the carplay box. I occasionally get the black screen if I miss the window, however.
 

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To add one more comment on this, I noticed that I almost never get the black screen if I start the car after the jag logo appears but before the carplay box has booted.... The window was small, but dramatically increased with the small capacitor i put in line to the carplay box. I occasionally get the black screen if I miss the window, however.
Hey Tweaker, thanks for the info. I assumed all the units were the basic ID Core since all the connections to the Jag/RR control module are the same. I did reach out to UAD and they wanted me to go through a series of resets. With work and the 6 hr time difference, that would be somewhat difficult. As you know, the unit is well mounted under the driver's seat and difficult to get to without help. It's a bit difficult for me to undo the seat, etc without help that's not available to me at this time. I have an appointment Saturday with a professional installer who's done other work for me. Together we should be able to solve the problem (I'll suggest your idea of running a direct connect to the battery). Worse case scenario, we just go back to stock! My guy does really premium vehicles and hopefully has alternate suggestions. Thanks for all your assistance. I'll let you know what transpires after Saturday.
 

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Hi all!
Just wanted to share my experience with Joyauto WJLR-1.
I have a manual F-Pace 2017 2.0d rwd.
The installation process went overall smooth, as per instructions found earlier here.
Made it mostly myself, crashed sills' trim clips on the way, just ordered new ones.
The surprise came when the unit didn't switch to rear camera upon putting into reverse gear. I'd contacted Joyeauto support team, and they had told me that for manual gearbox I need to connect Rear-c cable from the unit to a tail reverse light. They have also noted that I need to switch dips 4 and 8 ON for that set up. Which I did and reset the unit.
Since I didn't want to spend too much time on looking where and how to run the cables for the tail light and I didn't want to damage anything I drove to nearby garage to do this for me.
When we had all connected and tried to put reverse, the lcd went black and flushing (video New video by Igor Raihlin)
Talking to the support was helpless as they just didn't answer (maybe because of the time difference, maybe they will answer tomorrow).
Anyway, I tried to play with the dip switches, turned 4 off, left 8 on and, ta–da, everything worked just fine (video New video by Igor Raihlin).

So in conclusion, for manual gearbox Rear-c cable on the unit connects to the tail reverse light and dip 8 switch is on.
Guides are turned on and off from the native Jaguar infotainment video interface.
Cheers!
 
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