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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2018 F-PACE S wouldn't start after sitting for about 3 weeks. After charging the battery fully, I couldn't do a normal start or a backup start procedure start (with keyfob pressed against steering column). Sometimes the start-stop button is solid red, sometimes it is flashing red. Also can't do the Ignition On - Engine Off to check if any indicator lights are showing -- nothing shows up at all on the dash. When i try to remote start with the app, it says the car is in sleep mode. It sounds like something is still draining the battery (constant higher pitched whirring sound). I've tried disconnecting the positive battery terminal for a minute and reconnecting to reset. Still not able to reset or start.

Next step is getting it towed to the dealer. I am trying to find the "transmission park release" to get it out of Park and into Neutral so it can be put on a flatbed. In the S-model, does anyone know where this is? I have seen one procedure which involves taking the cubby cupholder out to reveal the secret release... but my S has a different configuration (see attached). Anyone know where this is on the 2018 S ... or anyone have access to the repair or service manual with any hints?
 

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Placing the Vehicle in Neutral -- Without Starting the Engine
This method should be used when the engine cannot be started.
Caution: Prior to operating the shift interlock override, secure the vehicle to ensure it will not roll. Deploy wheel chocks.
Operating the Shift Interlock Override:
The shift interlock override is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the intake manifold. To access, carefully remove the black plastic cover on the intake manifold by lifting upward.
 Lift the black lever on the shift interlock override to the vertical position (1).
 Engage the securing latch to hold the handle in position (2).
 The transmission will remain in Neutral until the shift interlock override is released.
Note: To return the transmission to Park, release the securing latch (2) and move the lever (1) back to the horizontal position.
Releasing the Parking Brake (EPB):
Shift Interlock Override
The EPB applies automatically when the ignition is turned Off. To temporarily disable the parking brake:
 With the ignition On-engine Off, depress the brake pedal and press down and hold the EPB switch.
 Within 5 seconds, turn the ignition Off.
 Continue to hold down the EPB switch for 2 more seconds. The parking brake will
remain released until the next time the ignition is cycled On and Off. Caution: If the ignition is cycled On and Off, this procedure must be repeated.
Releasing the Parking Brake when the Battery is Discharged:
Connect a booster pack to the jump-start pins in the engine compartment and operate the EPB switch normally.
Note: If the electronic brake fails to release or you are unable to obtain Neutral, use wheel skates or wheel dolly jacks on all non-rolling wheels.
WARNING: Do not connect the booster pack directly to the vehicle’s battery or damage to the electrical system may occur.
7
 

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yup, it's what @skyking said.
Sounds like dead battery.
Let us know what they find
 

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Uh-Oh ???:oops:
Correct. Jumpstarts and trickle charging are from the jump start leads in the engine compartment, not directly to the battery in the boot.
 
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Correct. Jumpstarts and trickle charging are from the jump start leads in the engine compartment, not directly to the battery in the boot.
Oh' , we are CLEAR Sir ! CRYSTAL CLEAR !:cool:
My Uh Oh comment was concerning DaveZ , not GR !:unsure:;)
 

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71585
 

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Thanks for reposting the exact same page I posted (in my post #2) nine hours earlier.
 
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Oh' , we are CLEAR Sir ! CRYSTAL CLEAR !:cool:
My Uh Oh comment was concerning DaveZ , not GR !:unsure:;)
Of course I know you were putting out the warning. I was just adding some more info for the OP.
 
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Thanks for reposting the exact same page I posted (in my post #2) nine hours earlier.
I was going to bring that infraction up earlier ,
but I did notice that DP's version had the very helpful VISUAL AID Step-1 & Step-2 ,
of the Shift Interlock Override !!!:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:;):cool:
 
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Thanks for reposting the exact same page I posted (in my post #2) nine hours earlier.
No problem I’m here to help, I must have missed your clear instructions and graphics in the long list of text. Well as GRVR would say it’s not the “exact same page” but hey it’s not a contest right,

I figured the actual exact page with picture out of the manual would be nice if people wanted to print out the page and have it in their glove box for future reference, I did post the entire road side Manual on this site early last year. but I saying that and telling him to look it up didn’t seem helpful.

Anyway sure more information is better, right

DP
 

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I was going to bring that infraction up earlier ,
but I did notice that DP's version had the very helpful VISUAL AID Step-1 & Step-2 ,
of the Shift Interlock Override !!!:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:;):cool:
Well at least you understand, it can be confusing when the instructions references a picture that’s not there. ?

DP
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks all, I have successfully managed to get the car in neutral with the shift interlock override lever after SkyKing's post ... and no worries, i was using the booster points up front on the battery charging.

But ... I am still stymied trying to get the EPB turned off. When I try to execute the "EPB off" procedure, I can't get the ignition turned on at all. I press / press and hold the start button without pressing the brake, and nothing happens ... no dash indicator lights at all. The battery charger says 100% so there should be juice in the AGM battery. So I think i still have the EPB on ... which is problematic because it's parked deep in the front of a pull-behind garage without the room to really maneuver a 23' flatbed back there. If I can't get the EPB off, I probably can't even roll it back with some help. I know i can get a wheel lift and dolly truck back there and they can pull it straight out on on skates, but i'd rather maneuver it manually to send it up on a flatbed.

The remote app locates the car and understands its status (locked / gas level etc.) but says the ICRS system is in Sleep mode when I try to use it to unlock the car. I would have thought disconnecting the positive cable from the battery for about a minute would have led to a "reset" / gotten it out of sleep mode if that's what it's stuck in.

Any other ideas on how to get into Ignition On Engine Off mode, or how to get the EPB off, or how to get it out of Sleep mode if that's what's making it non-responsive?
 

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Thanks all, I have successfully managed to get the car in neutral with the shift interlock override lever after SkyKing's post ... and no worries, i was using the booster points up front on the battery charging.

But ... I am still stymied trying to get the EPB turned off. When I try to execute the "EPB off" procedure, I can't get the ignition turned on at all. I press / press and hold the start button without pressing the brake, and nothing happens ... no dash indicator lights at all. The battery charger says 100% so there should be juice in the AGM battery. So I think i still have the EPB on ... which is problematic because it's parked deep in the front of a pull-behind garage without the room to really maneuver a 23' flatbed back there. If I can't get the EPB off, I probably can't even roll it back with some help. I know i can get a wheel lift and dolly truck back there and they can pull it straight out on on skates, but i'd rather maneuver it manually to send it up on a flatbed.

The remote app locates the car and understands its status (locked / gas level etc.) but says the ICRS system is in Sleep mode when I try to use it to unlock the car. I would have thought disconnecting the positive cable from the battery for about a minute would have led to a "reset" / gotten it out of sleep mode if that's what it's stuck in.

Any other ideas on how to get into Ignition On Engine Off mode, or how to get the EPB off, or how to get it out of Sleep mode if that's what's making it non-responsive?

Have you pushed the service botton on the over head, is there power to that ? If so push that button the poeple that answer should be able to walk you through that. Or call this number (800) 452-4827 it’s answer 24/7/365 they can help you and sent out a person to jump your if that’s what you need.

DP
 

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DaveZ, What did they find wrong with the car?? Mine is doing the exact same thing. (You said - Sometimes the start-stop button is solid red, sometimes it is flashing red. Also can't do the Ignition On - Engine Off to check if any indicator lights are showing -- nothing shows up at all on the dash.) Battery is charged. Fuses checked. Our final option is a tow to the dealership. Of course we were hoping to avoid that! But am curious what was wrong with yours?
 

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DaveZ, What did they find wrong with the car?? Mine is doing the exact same thing. (You said - Sometimes the start-stop button is solid red, sometimes it is flashing red. Also can't do the Ignition On - Engine Off to check if any indicator lights are showing -- nothing shows up at all on the dash.) Battery is charged. Fuses checked. Our final option is a tow to the dealership. Of course we were hoping to avoid that! But am curious what was wrong with yours?
Dave Z has not been on the forum for about 3 years.
 

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Thanks MKenM. It would have been nice to know what was ultimately wrong with his car! I will update my experience in case someone else finds this thread and was hoping for answers.

The tow truck arrived yesterday. Thankfully, this is the company that our Jaguar dealership (ONYX in Omaha) uses regularly and the driver was very familiar with how to engage the neutral on a car that is playing dead. Apparently, there are three different versions of a secret neutral switch on the various years. (Please dont shoot the messenger if this is wrong! Just going off what the guy said.) Mine happened to have the ‘easy one’. He took the cover off the engine and flipped a small lever. He said that on some models, he has to go in the car and remove the console…and some other complicated stuff that I wasn’t paying attention to. And on even other models, they need to get UNDER the car to do something (which is impossible due to ground clearance, or lack thereof). Anyway, the neutral lever switch didn’t work, as, some type of ‘e-brake’ was still engaged. It hurt me to my core watching him DRAG my baby onto the flatbed. At least it was just the back tires that were locked and he put the flatbed right under them. They did slide relatively easily on the diamond-plate platform. But the screech is still haunting me.

Car is at the dealership right now and is in the queue for service this morning. I am really anxious to know what the problem is. My husband is especially anxious. He tried all weekend to research the problem, troubleshoot, and avoid a tow/service. I’ll update when we know more.
 

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It took them four days to figure out what was wrong. They finally texted and said the telematics module needs to be replaced. Then I got to hear the dreaded words - supply chain problems….and it will take at least 30 days to get a new one in. I need to make some calls and ask about their storage location and a possible loaner.

“Vehicle is inside right now.” Hmmm…that doesn’t sound very encouraging. I mean, the 'right now' part of it. That sounds like once they take it off the rack, it’s getting the boot. We've been getting hail every 5-7 days in Omaha. Maybe I’ll ask if they offer indoor storage for a fee.

“I’m sorry we do not have any loaners right now very low on inventory like all dealers.” Cool.

I did find another thread on this forum where a guy bought a damaged F-Pace from auction. The dash was showing SOS and not fully functioning. He thought it was all battery related, but found out it wasn’t. It all sounded very familiar. It was the telematics module in his instance, too.
 

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Update:
ONYX (Omaha Jag/LRover/Mini/BMW dealership) has had my car for 17 days now. We were told that there are 8 computer modules on this F-pace and the one that went out ( telematics module ) is affecting them all. Or, all the modules are somehow ‘daisy-chained’ together and when one goes out, none can function. Just like a string of old Christmas lights 🤪. Maybe not, but that’s kind of how my non-mechanical/technical brain is interpreting it. Apparently, my module needs the software to be completely rewritten for MY car. One of ONYX's guys is at training this week (specifically because of needing to do this for my car? And, others in the future...). The service manager did say this is a known problem to Jaguar. As much drama as there has been, I’m surprised ONYX doesn’t have someone in-house or a contact at Jag corporate to help dealerships who do run into the problem. My guess is that ONYX doesn’t see it often (or ever?!) since it has been so challenging. The guy at who’s at training won’t be back until Monday. Ope, correction. Tuesday. Monday is fourth of July.

I envision a lot of trial and error for this newly trained guy. Writing code without error/s takes practice. It just takes one little character to be missing or out of place… and baby is going to sit there and continue to play dead.

The good news is that it’s 100% covered by our warranty. They're also searching for a loaner for me.
 
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